Patching Vinyl Floors, by Jim McClain

[TFP Admin]

This is a thread for discussion of the article, Patching Vinyl Floors, by Jim McClain. Your comments and questions are welcome. You may also rate the article by selecting a rating in the drop-down box above right.

Excerpt from: Jim This how-to will guide the home handyman (or woman) or the pro in the successful repair of today's sheet vinyl products sold for residential use. It's a method I have employed for many years -- long enough for me to see how it looks 5, 10 and even 15 years afterward. I believe a patched vinyl floor should not be seen.

This article is 3 pages, with navigation links at the bottom of each page. As a first here at TheFloorPro.com, a PHOTO ESSAY: Patching Vinyl Floors, also 3 pages, is included. This gives you larger images and fewer words.

Please read the article here: http://www.thefloorpro.com/how-to/pa...yl_floors1.php, see all the great pictures here: http://www.thefloorpro.com/how-to/pa...rs1_photos.php and join us in the discussion below.

[Lo Down]

Nice work Jim. I do the same, but use 3/4 inch blue tape to protect the side of the seam from adhesive contamination. I use my thumbnail to assist in bending over the tape so it conforms to the edge of the seam............. kind of a delicate manuver.

I have an article in the works as you know, but it may be a while. Motivation is very lacking right now.

I have a second idea for an article............ How to build you own PC from scratch.
...........casting the aluminum CPU heat sink in wet beach sand and making the CMOS battery from potatoes are just a few ideas to keep costs down.
This artical will take longer than the other one.... trust me.

[Jim McClain]

Thanks, Randy. I had to keep the verbiage to a minimum - even though the article is 3 pages long - but I also make the tape cover the edge of the seam and down onto the floor about an eighth of an inch to prevent adhesive ooze. Below is a cropped image from another article I'm working on. It may show the tape formed over the edge and onto the floor a little better.

I can empathize with the motivation problem. I should have had you sign a contract though.

Wow, I thought I was a computer modder, but you take the cake on that - er, maybe that should be "take the potato."

[Hoss]

Good article. The only thing I would recommend is placing the new piece over the old and double cutting. The reason why is the existing has contracted, shrunk a little, and by pre-cutting your new piece on the grout edge, in most cases, the new piece will be bigger. By overlapping and double cut, you can run your knife through both pieces just inside the grout line and have a perfect fit.

[Nick Arrera]

I double cut also , Never removing the knife from the seem when sliding the strait edge down the seem .. I always used that 1/4 inch tape , glued over it , removed it , and put the seem together .. We all have our own ways of doing things .. Can't wait to see the new confuser Lo . Is this going to be for a laptop ? hee hee ..

[tony lamar]

One thing I do a little different is, I use cheapo double stick tape to hold the new piece on top while I double cut. Sometimes, I heat and stretch the piece first, if it has shrunk. Good article, Jimbo.

[rusty baker]

What about them real installers, the ones who put 1 1/2" gold flat bar on top. I have seen it done.

[Nick Arrera]

We have them here to Rusty ..

[Hoss]

Instead of heating up the vinyl which will cause it to grow, try rolling it felt side out to shrink it a little. Try this the next time you get a piece of vinyl: Take a scrap piece and cut it down the center of the tile, not on the grout line. Roll one piece really tight with the felt on the outside and one piece with the print on the outside. Leave it tight for about 5 minutes. Unroll it and watch what has happened to the one that was rolled felt side out. It shrinks. You cannot match up a repair without doing this because once it is installed it shrinks, contracts, a little. The new piece that you are putting in will always be bigger if it was stored face side out. All you have to do is back roll it and you will have a better match at the grout lines.

[hookknife]

I like the article,easy step by step info. Good photos
lol on the gold flatbar

[vinney]

Originally Posted by hookknife I like the article,easy step by step info. Good photos lol on the gold flatbar

I would not glue so close to the edge. The glue will squish over. That will eliminate bleed thru in the seam and sealer contamination.

Vin

[Jim McClain]

Originally Posted by Hoss The only thing I would recommend is placing the new piece over the old and double cutting. The reason why is the existing has contracted, shrunk a little, and by pre-cutting your new piece on the grout edge, in most cases, the new piece will be bigger. By overlapping and double cut, you can run your knife through both pieces just inside the grout line and have a perfect fit.

Originally Posted by Hoss Instead of heating up the vinyl which will cause it to grow, try rolling it felt side out to shrink it a little.

Many vinyl repairs are done the double-cut method. I think that leaves a small gap -true, only the thickness of your blade, but a small gap none the less. My method makes the patch very tight. No gaps. In fact, my method, if using the compression method I describe in the article, makes the patch slightly larger than the cutout, creating a fit so snug you can't hardly see it has been patched even before you seal the seams.

As shown in the article, and even better in the photo essay, aligning the pattern is critical for an invisible patch. However you do this is your decision, but experience has shown me that it is best to acclimate your patch, just as you acclimate the new material. If the saved material has been rolled felt side out, I ask the customer to re-roll the material face-out and leave it rolled for about 2 hours. Then I want them to unroll the material and leave it on a flat surface over night. This will allow the patch to shrink or expand to wherever it is it will go after I have done the patch anyway. This eliminates any surprises.

Originally Posted by vinney I would not glue so close to the edge. The glue will squish over. That will eliminate bleed thru in the seam and sealer contamination.

As I have shown in the article, photo essay and above, I used tape to prevent any seam contamination and to keep the edge of the adhesive at least an eighth of an inch from the seam edge. If you feel the ridges are still too high and might cause "squish-over", then gently reduce them with a throw-away brush, or even the tip of your finger while the tape is still in place. The tape is to help prevent exactly what you mentioned.

Thank you all for your comments. I'm sure the article and your comments will help any pro or do-it-yourselfer make a great patch when they need to. If you haven't tried this method before, give it a whirl on your next repair and see if it doesn't make a really nice patch.

Jim

[jefh328ic]

we get many of these repairs lately at the company I work for, is time consuming really

[cproader]

Welcome Jef, good to have ya with us. Yer gonna learn some things here. Some things ya outta know, and some things ya shouldn't know.

[jefh328ic]

yeah, I just found this forum today while browing, hope to be participating in the pro forums soon