Thank you for visiting The Floor Pro Community.
Register for FREE for even more features.    
The Floor Pro Community

Go Back   The Floor Pro Community » Public Forums for the PRO, Do-It-Yourselfer & Consumer » Ceramic and Stone Q&A


Taping joints in hardie board



"Taping joints in hardie board," in the Ceramic and Stone Q&A forum, begins: "How crucial is it? I have a couple of 20x20 areas in my home. Alpha brick pavers going down. Two ..."

Like Tree4Likes
  • 1 Post By Kman
  • 1 Post By stullis
  • 1 Post By Jaz
  • 1 Post By Ed

Reply
 
LinkBack Topic Tools
Old July 29, 2011, 05:56 PM   #1
Ed
a Floor Pro
charter member badge
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Northern Louisiana
Posts: 345

Taping joints in hardie board


How crucial is it? I have a couple of 20x20 areas in my home. Alpha brick pavers going down. Two different tile guys have told me to skip it. In another thread it was mentioned that the joints showed through after they were taped and Stullis called it a rookie mistake. This would be the first I've used the tape. I know they are supposed to be taped but that won't help me if they show through. How difficult is it to keep from making humps? Thanks.

TFP recommends ShagTools.com
Ed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old July 29, 2011, 08:46 PM   #2
Kman
Tile Expert
TFP supporter badge
author badge
 
Kman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: NW Arkansas
Posts: 2,899

Hardi is one cbu that you don't want to skip this step. Because of it's composition Hardi is more prone to movement at the joints than other CBU's. It's also not as easy to get the taped joints as flat.

Taper the mud out several inches from the joint , sand it off smooth after it dries, but don't skip that step altogether.

If you haven't already bought or installed the Hardi, try using Permabase. The edges are tapered to allow for tape and mud. Much easier to work with.

stullis likes this.
Kman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old July 30, 2011, 01:38 PM   #3
Ed
a Floor Pro
charter member badge
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Northern Louisiana
Posts: 345

Thanks for the replies guys. The hardie is already down. Is this a one step process? Can I put it down with the flat side of a trowell or should I put it down with the narrow end of the trowell and come back the next day with the wide flat side? These pavers are pretty forgiving, but I would not want to see 3x5 sheets telegraghing through. I'll try to get some pics next week if you promise not to laugh.

Ed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old July 30, 2011, 01:57 PM   #4
Kman
Tile Expert
TFP supporter badge
author badge
 
Kman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: NW Arkansas
Posts: 2,899

The best way is to tape as you go. It can be difficult to keep the tape down when you have to pull up a tile to adjust it, but it will minimize the height of the seam.

Dampen the seam with a sponge, skim it with thinset, and embed the tape. Then skim it again, tapering out the thinset a few inches.

Make sure you use alkali-resistant mesh tape. Drywall tape won't work.

Also dampen the Hardi before you apply thinset for the tile, otherwise the Hardi will prematurely draw the moisture out.

Post pictures please. We'll be glad to see them.

Kman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old August 13, 2011, 07:23 PM   #5
Ed
a Floor Pro
charter member badge
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Northern Louisiana
Posts: 345

Ok, I spent last week and got all the pavers stuck. Next I will seal and grout. The tape the supply house sold me was self sticking although I did not know that untill I opened it. Quick and easy to put down but I have trouble believing it could possibly be adding any strength to the joints, but it was cheap and quick, so what the heck.photo9.jpg

photo3.jpg
Ed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old August 13, 2011, 07:45 PM   #6
Ed
a Floor Pro
charter member badge
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Northern Louisiana
Posts: 345

The floor was in terrible shape. This is not something I would normally take on for a custumer. What tile I do is almost always on a slab. I used 1/2 '' hardieboard so I could shoot it down with ring shank nails after modified thinset. I would blow through 1/4 ''. I have tried to use the screws in the past and have always made an absolute mess with them. This may not be ideal,but it is the best I could come up with.photo4.jpg

photo5.jpg

photo6.jpg

photo7.jpg

photo8.jpg

photo11.jpg
Ed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old August 13, 2011, 08:00 PM   #7
stullis
a Floor Pro
Senior Member of TFP
charter member badge
 
stullis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Sauk Centre, Minnesota
Posts: 4,290

Should be using a roofing nailer.

Barry Carlton likes this.
stullis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old August 13, 2011, 08:01 PM   #8
Jaz
a Floor Pro
 
Jaz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Troy Michigan USA
Posts: 101
Send a message via Skype™ to Jaz

How long are those nails? Don't you have a roofing nailer?

Jaz

Barry Carlton likes this.
Jaz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old August 13, 2011, 08:21 PM   #9
Ed
a Floor Pro
charter member badge
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Northern Louisiana
Posts: 345

Now you tell me. I don't have a roofing nailer. I seldom put down any backerboard but I see where a roofing nailer would be better. Nails are probably cheaper too.

Ed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old August 13, 2011, 08:39 PM   #10
Kman
Tile Expert
TFP supporter badge
author badge
 
Kman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: NW Arkansas
Posts: 2,899

In my pre-Ditra years I used a framing nailer for Hardi, but it wasn't a clipped-head nailer like that one, it was a coil nailer. The problem with those nails, and even the full-head nails to some degree, is that they tend to blow partway through the board. The key is to watch the pressure on the compressor, and of course you should avoid the joists since you're using a nail that length.

Since yours is done, there's nothing you can do except make sure the board is secure. If you see any vertical movement indicating the nail has blown through, you'll want to add some nails.

It's difficult, if not impossible, to find roofing nails that are hot-dipped galvanized that can be used in a roofing nailer.

Kman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old August 14, 2011, 06:35 PM   #11
Ed
a Floor Pro
charter member badge
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Northern Louisiana
Posts: 345

The hardie has actually been down at least a couple months while I worked on some other things but it seems solid as a rock so far. I will use ditra for the first time in a couple of weeks on a charity job at a church in a blighted neighborhood where the material has been donated and I will furnish the install. Seems like a good one to learn on.

Ed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old September 5, 2011, 06:06 PM   #12
Ed
a Floor Pro
charter member badge
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Northern Louisiana
Posts: 345

Here's some pics. Sorry they are a little late. Wife was happy with the new floorsecuredownload4.jpg

securedownload3.jpg

securedownload1.jpg

securedownload5.jpg

securedownload6.jpg

securedownload9.jpg. She came to me laughing and said," I was cooking tacos and dropped some meat on the floor and now I can't find it." She had 9 girls down for the labor day weekend and being the good husband I went down to help.
Jim McClain likes this.
Ed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old September 5, 2011, 06:10 PM   #13
Kman
Tile Expert
TFP supporter badge
author badge
 
Kman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: NW Arkansas
Posts: 2,899

Well that's just purty!

Kman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old September 5, 2011, 09:36 PM   #14
Jim McClain
Admin/Founder
 
Jim McClain's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: teh Ether
Posts: 12,783

I agree with the Kman. Very nice looking floor.

Jim McClain is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Go Back   The Floor Pro Community » Public Forums for the PRO, Do-It-Yourselfer & Consumer » Ceramic and Stone Q&A
go to previous or next topic in this forum
« Grout problem... | Question on installing granite on counters »

Topic Tools


Similar Topics to Taping joints in hardie board
Topic Topic Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Hardie board or plywood? sucamilla Ceramic and Stone Q&A 15 January 31, 2011 12:14 PM
Joint tape for hardie backer Don Monfils Ceramic & Stone Sales and Installations 3 September 20, 2010 05:21 PM
Tile Joints preschool mom Ceramic and Stone Q&A 4 February 15, 2010 04:40 PM
Expansion joints Chris Mha Floor Preparation 10 December 2, 2009 04:20 PM
Saw Cut Control Joints...What to do? Steve Olson Floor Preparation 21 November 6, 2006 09:57 PM

collapse Log in
User Name:

Password:

Not a member yet?
Register Now!
support TFP

JonnyCorners


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 03:17 PM.

Home   About   Contact   TOS   Privacy   Website Map  

Powered by vBulletin ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd. | All Site Content 2006-2014 TheFloorPro.com