This discussion, "Tile Tabletop", in Ceramic and Stone Q&A (part of the category Do-It-Yourself & Consumer Support), begins, "It'll be a lot easier to get all the tiles on plane with each other using thinset as Stullis suggested...."
Here's a trick I did on a hearth once. To get the top surface absolutely flat for an area that size, lay your tiles on a flat surface upside down, spread your thinset on the table surface, then set the table upside down on the tile and let it set overnight. Walla, perfectly flat surface.
It'll be a lot easier to get all the tiles on plane with each other using thinset as Stullis suggested.
Obviously I'll defer to you guys on this point given that I don't know what I'm talking about but I would like to understand why this is the case. Is it because a bed of thinset gives you more wiggle room (so to speak)? Or because it takes longer to set up and therefore you get more time to adjust?
This raises a question in my mind. For a project like this is it necessary to use a bed of thinset or could I just butter the back of each tile as I set them? Any tips welcome. Thank you.
If you have room for a trowel, I would comb it out... then use a brass/wood level or board to flatten the tiles by pushing down against the surrounding wood frame. It should be easy.
If you have room for a trowel, I would comb it out... then use a brass/wood level or board to flatten the tiles by pushing down against the surrounding wood frame. It should be easy.
I had planned to do the tiling before I put the substrate in place (to keep the thinset/adhesive away from the wood) but I think this makes a very good argument for installing the substrate and then tiling. Thanks for the suggestion, Jerry.
The table base is just about done. Now I just have to make the top. Maybe I'll be able to post a picture in a few weeks. Thanks again to all for the help.
The thinset, and the moisture associated with it, brought on more concerns, with the already stained & finished and built tables, he said.
Raised grain was one, and glued joints compromised, another.
Just when I thought I had a plan, floorguy has to remind me that he's already warned me about this. Fortunately, I have time to figure this out before I get to the point of setting the tiles.
Pick a tile with a flatter back or a little Red Guard will prevent moisture problems is a couple of more options.
If the wood is already finished I don't think you'd have any problems with grain raising and you could use a exterior glue for gluing up your wood joints.
Pick a tile with a flatter back or a little Red Guard will prevent moisture problems is a couple of more options.
If the wood is already finished I don't think you'd have any problems with grain raising and you could use a exterior glue for gluing up your wood joints.
I'm not worried about glue failure. The glue I typically use is water resistant and thinset would have very little access to the joints. Water can be a problem for finishes. You're right that grain raising likely isn't the concern. But water can leave marks in a finish (we've all seen water marks). I think it would be ok. I may do a test to know for sure.
I already have the tiles I want to use but I'm curious, what are the implications of a flatter back?
I already have the tiles I want to use but I'm curious, what are the implications of a flatter back?
David
Don't need as much glue/mastic/thinset = less moisture but may also allow the use of glue or mastic for setting instead of thinset.
Use painters tape to protect the wood from moisture when grouting and/or caulking especially if the wood is unfinished. Ex. Oak can turn black when exposed to water.
When you guys asked for progress pics I wasn't sure if you meant general progress or just of the tiling. I hope it's the former because here is a pre-tiling picture. The top is dry fit at the moment. I still have to cut the rabbet to support the tile substrate and do some cleanup before I glue and peg it. Hope to have that done before the end of the week.
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