"Glass block - Corning - PROVantage system," in the Ceramic and Stone Q&A forum, begins: "Starting on two glass block showers and when I went around to pick up supplies I saw this newer (to ..."
Starting on two glass block showers and when I went around to pick up supplies I saw this newer (to me) system that Pittsburgh Corning has came out with. Its been over two years since I've done any glass block work so I am both surprised and intrigued by this.
The GB walls will be supported on two sides.... the sill and 1 end wall... and going up 8 or 9 rows high using Decora 8 x 8 x 4's with end blocks. The walls will be about 8 block wide too but since the showers are 8' 6" in length I may go with two columns of end blocks to form a finished pass thru. No doors on these either.
I've always mortared these using spacers, panel anchors and the ladder reinforcing .
Has anyone has tried this out? Even if you ain't tried it out please pass along any information you may have read about elsewhere.
Thank you Jim.... I went to their website over the weekend. Corning has a history (with me) of printing conflicting information and specs. I don't know why that is but is goes back for several years.
I pulled out the PROVantage assembly instructions that are included with the spacer packs. This is word for word from the "Estimating Guide for PROVantage Spacers and Accessories" page".....
"" For Glass Block Panels Framed on Two Sides..... the largest panel you can build framed on two sides is 60 sq. ft. or 10 - 8" blocks by 13 - 8" blocks"".
You see what I'm saying? They go on to say not to use silicone joints in wet areas but rather use the new grout pails to hold it all together. What happens is they seem to get get the PROVantage 1 and PROVantage 11 systems confused. There are two PROVantage systems to choose from. I am talking about the PROVantage 11 system and using the surface grout technique.
In this forum, the title is all that matters to the spiders... and you done good... real good.
If you think this is a good consumer topic as well as one for pros, I can move it there for you. In the consumer forums, spiders crawl everything, not just the titles. In any case, interesting topic. I love glass block. Never installed it, but always wanted to use it in my own home. Just never got the chance or the dough. Maybe you got pictures of jobs you have done with glass block tile that I could drool over???
Jerry,
Unless I've misread the instructions, both systems 1 & 2 are not recommended for showers. I can see why on system 1, because of the track and has to be anchored causing a penetration. System 2 said at the end that it was not for shower use.
Just my thoughts, but the best system is the glass block mortar with ladder reinforcing both horizontal and vertical. Something to think about
I have some pics of the finished shower that was 6 ft by 4 ft with 2 walls being of glass blocks. The blocks were on top of a curb wrapped with Kerdi membrane and anchored at one vertical wall. The door hung on the tiled wall. I'll try and find them.
Jim
It's confusing as all get out Jim . What they mean is their are two PROVantage systems (1 and 11). Then when you delve down some their are two methods of addressing the grout joints within PROVantage 11..... either silicone or the new surface grout.
The main difference between PROVantage 1 and 11 is how it is anchored. PROVantage 11, in conjunction with the surface grout procedure, can be used for shower installations.
Jerry,
I've attached some pics of the glass block and the shower. If I have put them in the wrong place I apologize. just ket me know where they should be.
I do understand about the conflicting info from Corning. I forgot that it was the same problem I had. Just went with the stronger system as this is a kids shower.
Jim
Going back to my question..... Pittsburgh Corning must be pretty darn sure this PROVantage 11 is a safe method and my job fall well within their specs.
I do agree that that the mortar and wire system should be stronger, but maybe this new system is adequately strong.... that is what I am looking for others installers insight on.
Jim, how do you prefer to trim at the glass block? I can't tell by these pictures. Do you tile the walls first and then drill thru to install the panel anchors , or, do you install the GB first and run the tile to it?
I have always put in the GB first , building out a framed jamb opening, and use mud caps to trim the inside and outsides. My 2x6 radius caps (mud caps) on this job are outrageously expensive.... 3.75 ea as opposed to .50 to .75 each for a standard color mud cap. Takes about 140 mud caps per shower ... ( 525.00 )... when I figure in the niches.
Got any close up pictures of how you meet up at the GB and tile transitions?
I think the way I have been doing this adds alot more work and expense that may or may not be necessary for me to give a balanced appearance....
Jerry,
The finished curb is flush with the glass blocks. I use the Schluter System for waterproofing so everything is wrapped in the membrane. The one side wall was membraned behind the glass blocks and the tile was brought up to the blocks. When I penetrated the membrane on the vertical wall, the holes were loaded with urethane and the covered on the top of the penetrations with white urethane. The vertical anchors on the curb were wrapped under the first block and bedded in mortar. There were no penetrations into the curb. The curb was constructed to slope towards the shower and then wrapped in membrane. Every other horizontal row had reinforcing as did every third or fourth vertical. column. The blocks did not go to the ceiling. I'll try and find some pics of the details.
Jim
No doors on these either.
They go on to say not to use silicone joints in wet areas but rather use the new grout pails to hold it all together. 
What happens is they seem to get get the PROVantage 1 and PROVantage 11 systems confused. There are two PROVantage systems to choose from. I am talking about the PROVantage 11 system and using the surface grout technique.
...
....
....
