Tile Spikes Needed?

[TJfive0]

I am putting up 4.25 by 4.25 ceramic tiles on the shower walls with a listello border somewhere near the middle.

Do I need to use tile spikes or wedges to support the bottom row of tiles at the tub?

Or will the tiles support themselves without sliding down?

I am worried that as I work my way up there will be too much weight pushing down and push the bottom row down.


Also, how do you suggest "holding the space" of the listello? I have seen some people tile up to the location of the listello then use a 1 x 6 cut to the width of the listello and put that in where the listello would go.
Then continue tiling on top of the board. Then come back the next day and put the listello in.

Is all this only necessary if you are using large tiles? Or is this all necessary with small 4.25 inch tiles as well?

Thanks!

[TJfive0]

Oh, I almost forgot.....

Is there a specific sized notched trowel I should use on 4.25 x 4.25 inch tiles?

I am using versabond modified thinset to lay the tiles on the wall. (This will be done over redgard)

[cproader]

First step is to draw a level line on all walls and measure down to the tub. I rarely find a tub level enough to stack full tiles. This will show you what and how much will need cut on bottom row. I use wedges under my first row to leave a nice caulk space between tub and tile. When usin thinset with dry wall tile, I flat coat the walls with thinset and then trowel thinset to the back of each tile with a 1/4 V notch. This will give you more time to adjust tiles as you are working up. And it provides the bond you need when cured. Leaving a space is only done when the Listello needs to be built out to finish flush, so in this case it is not needed.......

[TJfive0]

So I can tile it all at once, I don't have to leave a gap to come back and do the listello....


Would it be equally as affective if I used a 1/4 by 1/4 by 1/4 square notched trowel and put the thinset on the wall and notched it, then put the tile on?

I am guessing I only need the wedges on the bottom between the tile and the tub to make sure it's all level. Then I can keep tiling like normal using my 1/8" tile spacers.

[Kman]

Then I can keep tiling like normal using my 1/8" tile spacers.

Do these tile not have lugs on all sides to get the appropriate space, or are you just wanting a wider grout joint?

I would check the tub for level. If you're lucky and it's not too far out, you can use spikes to get the bottom row straight. Once you get it set, you can work all the way up to the ceiling. Of course, before you start, make sure you won't end up with a sliver of tile at the ceiling.

Even if the tub is out of level, I still start with the bottom row and work my way up. Others may use a ledger board nailed or screwed to the wall at the height where the 2nd or 3rd row starts, then at the end of the day, pull the board and repair the holes with silicone. The next day, the bottom row can be cut to fit with about 1/8" gap at the tub.

Look at the way I did them on my own tub if you need a visual. I also used 1x4 in place of the listello so I could put it in the next day and take my time with it. Only down side is that it's more difficult to spread thinset in that narrow gap.

Tiling a Shower or Tub Surround | Welcome to Trevathan Floorcovering

1/4" square notch trowel is what I would use for everything.

[TJfive0]

Thanks!

The tiles do not have built in spacers. The guy said they did, but they do not....

I will make sure it is level with the tile spikes, and keep going from there!

[TJfive0]

I take that back, I believe I was confused.
I am pretty sure they do have self spacers. I didn't realize those were the spacers at first, lol
oops

[hookknife]

TJfive0 said Would it be equally as affective if I used a 1/4 by 1/4 by 1/4 square notched trowel and put the thinset on the wall and notched it, then put the tile on?

What you are trying to do is get the appropriate coverage/transfer from you mortar.I do like CP flat trowel the wall and notch trowel on the tile or visa versa.
when you set a few tiles pull a couple off now and then to see the amount of transfer you are getting, your looking for 80-100% coverage. On that same thought though you also don't want the mortar ooozing out of the joints