Buying & Tech Tips for vinyl flooring in your home.

Jim McClain · May 25, 2006, 07:07 PM

Buying Tips:
Many sheet vinyls come in 12' widths. When planning for the amount to purchase, either take a diagram to the installer or sales person or figure your own measurements based on the width of the material. You may have waste that cannot be avoided.

The vinyl is but one product that is necessary for the job. Many consumers are surprised to learn you have additional items to consider: underlayment panels, toilet bowl rings and supply lines, doorway trims, baseboard, seam sealers, adhesive, tub or threshold metals, new thresholds. You may need one or more of these items to do the job right.

Plan ahead. You may be without a toilet, dishwasher, stove, water, or refrigerator for a period of time during the project. Try to stay out of the work area during the preparations and installation.

Ask the floor pro questions about how your floor will hold up to the traffic you have (be specific) and about expected maintenance procedures and intervals so that you select a floor that will meet your needs and expectations.

Make sure your sheet vinyl is rolled pattern side out until you are ready to install it. Pattern side in makes the material curl and is very difficult to get it flat along areas that get no base (cabinets, tubs, etc.) and almost impossible to make a seam lay flat.

Higher quality vinyl floors tend to have larger patterns. Some rooms, like a small bath, could be over-powered by a large pattern. Make your selection based not only on color and style, but the scale of the area it will be in.

The DIY also needs to consider when a job may be too large or difficult and have a realistic idea of your limitations. Even pros need help sometimes. Will you?

Installation Tips:
During the installation there are many hazards. Sharp knives, heavy rollers, wet glue all over the floor -- be sure to put all pets out of harms way and do not allow children, visitors or curious adults into the work area.

If installing on a concrete slab, test for excessive moisture. Tape down a 24" X 24" piece of clear plastic. Place tape on all four sides making it air tight and leave for 48 hours. Then remove the plastic. It there are droplets of water on the plastic or the concrete is darker than the rest, you need to then have a professional conduct calcium chloride tests to determine how much moisture you have coming through your slab.

Remember that when overlaying another vinyl flooring, use a cementious patch for leveling so the pattern from the old floor does not telegraph through to the new. Every time you add a layer of flooring you multiply by 10 times the softness of a single floor. Logarithmic type multiplication 10 x 10 x 10.

Use heavy paper or light weight roofing felt to make a pattern of your floor to transcribe onto the vinyl for a perfect fit. Be sure to mark the pattern paper top and bottom so that you do not accidentally make a mirror image of your floor.

The correct trowel is important and letting the adhesive have the proper open time is too. This allows some moisture to flash out of the adhesive and makes it more tacky and less apt to bubble.

When applying adhesive to the second half of a room, do not overlap the fresh adhesive onto the side that has already been glued and rolled. Keep it 1/8 of an inch away to prevent a ridge line that shows through.

After you have glued the first side and allowed the adhesive to flash, wet the backing with a damp (not soaking wet) rag. This buys you a little extra time before the adhesive grabs.

Be especially careful not to contaminate the seam edges with adhesive. Seam sealer is designed to seal edges of vinyl, not adhesive. The adhesive will cause your seams to darken and/or split and curl up in time.

Most DIYers don't have a roller, but your floor will still need rolling. Use a method that will apply 50 - 75 pounds of even pressure and overlap each stroke or pass. Rolling is not just to press it into the glue, it is to get the trapped air out too.

Keep furniture and heavy traffic off new vinyl for 24 - 72 hours if possible to allow for setting and curing. Putting a heavy chair on the soft material, making a dent before the adhesive drys will cause a permanent dent. By all means, do not walk in any seam area until the sealer has cured or your seam may fail.

When the project looks like it's done, it might not be. Waiting is part of the process. Seam sealers need time to cure so that the seams stay well bonded. For that reason, no traffic should be permitted for at least 2 hours (check the seam sealer instructions) near any seam area.

You can use the cardboard tube that your vinyl came rolled on to protect your seams until they are cured (sometimes up to 24 hours). Split the tube in half length-wise and tape over the seam area, being careful not to let it touch the seam sealer.

The lists are not done yet. I know some great floorcovering professionals who have not yet added to these tips. I hope they will find the time to give us the benefit of their experience and knowledge. But I would like to thank all the members of TheFloorPro Community who have contributed to this list so far:
Daniel Wachtel

Tandy Reeves

selvalee

Lo Down

Chris Mha

rgfloor

Darol Wester

Floorguy

Ed Vincent

Daris Mulkin

Thank you to everyone else who participated in the thread too. Let's keep the ideas flowing.

I won't hog all the tips. There are some great vinyl pros here that can add more tips for the consumer and do-it-yourselfer.

Best R'gards,

Jim McClain

EDIT
I just updated the lists which are also posted in message number 6 below.

William Mear · June 1, 2006, 07:47 AM

Tip #1 buy ceramic tile.

Daniel Wachtel · June 1, 2006, 04:36 PM

Even though William used a smiley in the above post I must point out:

Many situations make it impossible for an end-user or DIYer to use ceramic tile. Money being last on the list. Many homes do not meet, let alone excede deflection requirements for ceramic or stone. Code for joist structure deflection is L/360, there is however no code for the area between the joists. Manufactured housing and motor homes are also impractical for ceramic tile.

Bob Buzzard · June 2, 2006, 02:22 AM

Buyer beware

William Mear · June 2, 2006, 09:49 AM

Daniel,
I would agree with tile in mobile homes in the past but the invent of ditra is actually rated for 19.2" centers which is what most trailers are. I used it in my house and installed 20x20 porcelains. solid as a rock. Right product in the right place.

Jim McClain · July 7, 2006, 09:10 PM

There have been a number of excellent tips, so I thought before this thread got too long, I would consolidate all the great tips and then a moderator or the guide can prune the thread down to a more manageable size. 'K?

Alright, these are the tips and ideas we have come up with so far. I have split them between Buying tips and Installation tips:

Buying Tips:

Many sheet vinyls come in 12' widths. When planning for the amount to purchase, either take a diagram to the installer or sales person or figure your own measurements based on the width of the material. You may have waste that cannot be avoided.
The vinyl is but one product that is necessary for the job. Many consumers are surprised to learn you have additional items to consider: underlayment panels, toilet bowl rings and supply lines, doorway trims, baseboard, seam sealers, adhesive, tub or threshold metals, new thresholds. You may need one or more of these items to do the job right.
Plan ahead. You may be without a toilet, dishwasher, stove, water, or refrigerator for a period of time during the project. Try to stay out of the work area during the preparations and installation.
Ask the floor pro questions about how your floor will hold up to the traffic you have (be specific) and about expected maintenance procedures and intervals so that you select a floor that will meet your needs and expectations.
Make sure your sheet vinyl is rolled pattern side out until you are ready to install it. Pattern side in makes the material curl and is very difficult to get it flat along areas that get no base (cabinets, tubs, etc.) and almost impossible to make a seam lay flat.
Higher quality vinyl floors tend to have larger patterns. Some rooms, like a small bath, could be over-powered by a large pattern. Make your selection based not only on color and style, but the scale of the area it will be in.
The DIY also needs to consider when a job may be too large or difficult and have a realistic idea of your limitations. Even pros need help sometimes. Will you?

Installation Tips:

During the installation there are many hazards. Sharp knives, heavy rollers, wet glue all over the floor -- be sure to put all pets out of harms way and do not allow children, visitors or curious adults into the work area.
If installing on a concrete slab, test for excessive moisture. Tape down a 24" X 24" piece of clear plastic. Place tape on all four sides making it air tight and leave for 48 hours. Then remove the plastic. It there are droplets of water on the plastic or the concrete is darker than the rest, you need to then have a professional conduct calcium chloride tests to determine how much moisture you have coming through your slab.
Remember that when overlaying another vinyl flooring, use a cementious patch for leveling so the pattern from the old floor does not telegraph through to the new. Every time you add a layer of flooring you multiply by 10 times the softness of a single floor. Logarithmic type multiplication 10 x 10 x 10.
Use heavy paper or light weight roofing felt to make a pattern of your floor to transcribe onto the vinyl for a perfect fit. Be sure to mark the pattern paper top and bottom so that you do not accidentally make a mirror image of your floor.
The correct trowel is important and letting the adhesive have the proper open time is too. This allows some moisture to flash out of the adhesive and makes it more tacky and less apt to bubble.
When applying adhesive to the second half of a room, do not overlap the fresh adhesive onto the side that has already been glued and rolled. Keep it 1/8 of an inch away to prevent a ridge line that shows through.
After you have glued the first side and allowed the adhesive to flash, wet the backing with a damp (not soaking wet) rag. This buys you a little extra time before the adhesive grabs.
Be especially careful not to contaminate the seam edges with adhesive. Seam sealer is designed to seal edges of vinyl, not adhesive. The adhesive will cause your seams to darken and/or split and curl up in time.
Most DIYers don't have a roller, but your floor will still need rolling. Use a method that will apply 50 - 75 pounds of even pressure and overlap each stroke or pass. Rolling is not just to press it into the glue, it is to get the trapped air out too.
Keep furniture and heavy traffic off new vinyl for 24 - 72 hours if possible to allow for setting and curing. Putting a heavy chair on the soft material, making a dent before the adhesive drys will cause a permanent dent. By all means, do not walk in any seam area until the sealer has cured or your seam may fail.
When the project looks like it's done, it might not be. Waiting is part of the process. Seam sealers need time to cure so that the seams stay well bonded. For that reason, no traffic should be permitted for at least 2 hours (check the seam sealer instructions) near any seam area.
You can use the cardboard tube that your vinyl came rolled on to protect your seams until they are cured (sometimes up to 24 hours). Split the tube in half length-wise and tape over the seam area, being careful not to let it touch the seam sealer.

The lists are not done yet. I know some great floorcovering professionals who have not yet added to these tips. I hope they will find the time to give us the benefit of their experience and knowledge. But I would like to thank all the members of TheFloorPro Community who have contributed to this list so far:

Daniel Wachtel

Tandy Reeves

selvalee

Lo Down

Chris Mha

rgfloor

Darol Wester

Floorguy

Ed Vincent

Daris Mulkin

Thank you to everyone else who participated in the thread too. Let's keep the ideas flowing.

hookknife · July 7, 2006, 11:07 PM

Always use sharp blades, if you think youre blade might be dull IT IS! dull blades cause more accidents than you might think

Geez Jim you didnt leave anything for me to do hehehhe

looks great, now i know what i need to do next time eh???

Post # 1-5 really dont belong in this thread, id like to move them but dont really know where to put them, any ideas???

Jim McClain · July 8, 2006, 12:22 AM

Thanks Bryan. I had a lot of help. I like your tip about sharp blades too. It'll definitely make the next cut.

The other posts I thought were fine. Not really tips for buying or installing vinyl (well, maybe Bob's was, but that applies to everything. On second thought, I really shoulda added it too. Next cut for that too (sorry Bob). But the other posts add interest to the thread, and a little color.

The messages that got deleted were only those that made the first cut in the tips lists or were comments on those. The ones left are just conversational and certainly alternatives to vinyl floors. You're the guy in charge though, Mr. Guide, so whatever you decide I'm sure will be fine.

But just think... this and your post will prob'ly bite the ether dust next cut too.

Oh wait, you left a tip. Okay, then MY post will be tanked. Oh well.

Jim

hookknife · July 8, 2006, 08:09 AM

Id be glad to leave them if you think they add to the thread, i just didnt want to be slacking on the job

I thought maybe wed put them in the ceramic tips thread, but on 2nd thought they are fine like you said.

rusty baker · July 8, 2006, 09:04 AM

Just because you are a DIYer who has done everything else does not mean you can install vinyl. Just be prepared, it is easy to screw up. In the long run you are better off to hire a pro. If you insist in doing it, in a room under 12 ft., buy loose-lay and follow the instructions to the letter. I would not recommend anyone other than a pro make vinyl seams.

hookknife · July 8, 2006, 03:48 PM

Thats true, its not like a pergo board you can remove and throw away, one wrong cut can ruin alotta vinyl

Overall one of the most unforgiving floorcoverings you can install.

Chuck · July 9, 2006, 03:20 PM

Unforgiving? Probably. Vinyl gets easier to install each and every year, though. The stuff I learned on(Corlon, Designer, Seagate) was practically impossible for a novice mechanic to install, let alone a DIY type. That has all changed. Heck, they are putting that glass back on Medintech now. Talk about a hack's dream come true.

hookknife · July 9, 2006, 07:39 PM

Seems like diy world keeps growing, its a good thing as long as they realize thier limits, its when they start trying things they shouldnt that they find trouble

Jeff Short · November 26, 2007, 02:43 PM

When buying, be specific about what your needs & expectations are... the salesperson needs information to help get you the best product for your job. Also, be realistic about your expectations... vinyl will not perform like ceramic or wood, although it may have a similar appearance.

Bill Watson · November 26, 2007, 03:22 PM

This time of year, it could be very important to acclimate your new vinyl, and ensure that the installation area is maintained at a temperature of above 65 degrees for the recommended period. Typically 24 hours before installing, during the installation, and a period of at least 24 hours after.
Cold vinyl can be extremely difficult to work with.
Just ask me about the time I tried installing Seagate in an area where I could see my breath. Can you imagine lots of tiny little pieces?

That was my first vinyl job about 30 years ago, and I still remember the embarrasment of it all.