"Tricks Of The Vinyl Trade," in the Floorcovering Installation & Maintenance Tips forum, begins: "Jim Dandy said
Great tip guys!
I love the washer thing, must have missed out on the Armstrong DIY kits. ..."
I love the washer thing, must have missed out on the Armstrong DIY kits. Love it! Goin' to the garage to put one in my tool box!
I can't think of much to add other than to help eliminate a glue line on "dry to touch adhesive" installs, simply don't roll the material right at the glue line stay back 6-8". You can roll the area where you started or stopped gluing after you've glued the other half. works for me.
JD
Be sure to use a washer like the one I showed. The small hole works better for a pen of mechanical pencil to stay centered in.......... you may need to put one finger lightly on the washer so it doesn't flip up on ya.
Staying back on the dry to touch adhesives is a good one.
That would probably work fine. The washer I think might in some instances be more accurate because a bobbin has two levels, and the upper one might follow a very slightly different path if the object has a tilt, depression or bump at the upper level. If there was such a washer........ like a fender washer with an even smaller hole, it would be great, because only the point of the pen would fit itside.
Hey Jerry, I wonder if Armstrongs patent has expired? ............ that was an 80's thing wasn't it? The WasherdownNow has a smaller hole than a fender washer, and it's metal, unlike Armstrongs el-cheapo plastic disk............. I gonna be rich..... see ya in Maui. Cowabunga!
I'm gonna try something new today.
I have a laundry room to do today with IVC vinyl. I'm going to glue the entire floor in one shot, instead of doing it in halves.
I bought a small roll of 3 mil plastic sheeting. Plan is to let the pressure sensitive glue dry, then unroll a pre-cut piece onto the fresh adhesive. Then I will slide my IVC into place, right on top the plastic.
Once the vinyl is positioned correctly, I will fold back each half of the floor to expose the plastic, then cut and remove half of it.............. then lay the vinyl back down, and do the same to the other half. Has anyone done this before?
Sure is a waste of time watching glue dry twice in a relatively small area.
Well, it worked good. I used 3 mil plastic. It peeled off the adhesive nicely.
I think using a few overlapping 3 foot wide pieces of rolled up plastic would work best. Any wider than that and it would get difficult to unroll and keep the plastic sheeting flat.
This may be something everyone already does because I have always worked by myself, I never know how other layers do things but here goes. On VCT, I find the center of the floor about 10 feet out and put a nail. I tie my chalk line to that and hang it above the door. So after the thin spread dries i can pop a line on top of it. With white chalk of course.
Location: "middle of the mitten" Saint Louis, Michigan
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Re: "TRICKS OF THE TRADE "
rusty baker said
This may be something everyone already does because I have always worked by myself, I never know how other layers do things but here goes. On VCT, I find the center of the floor about 10 feet out and put a nail. I tie my chalk line to that and hang it above the door. So after the thin spread dries i can pop a line on top of it. With white chalk of course.
if i recall my own training and years on my knees(though i didn't ever do much VCT myself), chalk first- a chalked line will show clearly through the vct adhesive, once it dries- or, as i may show my ignorance, is there still a time and place for cut back adhesive?
if i recall my own training and years on my knees(though i didn't ever do much VCT myself), chalk first- a chalked line will show clearly through the vct adhesive, once it dries- or, as i may show my ignorance, is there still a time and place for cut back adhesive?
Yes, exactly!!! That is why it is called "clear spread" not "thin spread"
Pop your line, right in the middle of a doorway, so you can get out and have a spot to start, and tip the bucket of glue over and spread the blob out, working your way to the door. Well, you knew that.
Location: "middle of the mitten" Saint Louis, Michigan
Posts: 341
Re: "TRICKS OF THE TRADE "
Floorguy said
Yes, exactly!!! That is why it is called "clear spread" not "thin spread"
Pop your line, right in the middle of a doorway, so you can get out and have a spot to start, and tip the bucket of glue over and spread the blob out, working your way to the door. Well, you knew that.
Sorry- I missed the difference. I was thinking my clear spread adhesives used the term thin spread, too. Now, I'll have to go read my cans again!
I believe the labels usually say, "Clear Thinspread". It's not "clear spread", it's thinspread that is clear in color. I don't have a bucket of the stuff any more, but I think that's it.
I do believe asphalt cutback still exists, but the black thin spread is a rubber-resin base and has been around for close to 30 years. As there is minimal costs difference, I cannot understand why anyone would use it over clear thin spread.
Anyone out using the black stuff that can explain the benefits over clear thin spread?
Location: Today....Under the Wainbow , Tomorrow...Who Knows?
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Re: "TRICKS OF THE TRADE "
There was a time when Circle A would not warranty clear thin spread over cutback residue, but they did warranty the black thin spread (go figger). So on a redo project we often got stuck with the black goo.
In certain circumstances, such as static control ie. computer rooms, a specific cutback is warrented. I have personally done a few, plus grew into the trades and actually started with cutback. Still like it, but it has it's limitations. That said, I still prefer clear spread, the only differece being after I snap my line, I use a sharp pencil over the line for about 6' or so, it's a thinner line and will allow me to start a tiny bit straighter. It works well, especially in larger rooms.
