"Tricks of the Carpet Trade," in the Floorcovering Installation & Maintenance Tips forum, begins: "Floorguy said
C-clamp? I'm not seeing the picture????
Why not a toe kick driving bar? I've seen a stair tool ..."
Why not a toe kick driving bar? I've seen a stair tool used.
If the overhanging part has any bounce to it, it's really hard to dirve a nail in, especially with a toe kick bar and a really short swing. I have used this procediure only twice, just figured I would toss it out in case anyone ever runs into a weird one. The first I did was at an upper hallway overhang in a log home.......... there was a log in a place by the lip, where I could get no swing.......... the C-clamp worked great....slow but greatI I used tackless under this short overhang, and cut the carpet flush, because there was also no way to get a tacker or a tack hammer into that space.
Nope, not a common problem... C-clamp idea is only for a very few tight spots that many will never even run into.
you dont realy cut your underlay that short of the gripper do you any of the lads i have taught did that i would make them rip it off and replace at there own expense
you dont realy cut your underlay that short of the gripper do you any of the lads i have taught did that i would make them rip it off and replace at there own expense
Are you referring to the stair pictures? If it's waterfalled, then it's hollow on the riser anyway..... till you get to the tackstrip.
I have done this before when it is needed. Not the best way, but an alternative in a pinch.
Photo #1 is of something I discovered late in the game. I was ready to continue on installing a laminate floor today, but noticed a slight crack in the filler at an underlayment seam. Jumped up and down on it and it moved a tiny bit, so I carved out the filler so it couldn't crack into pieces if it moved a little bit underneath the laminate over time.
............ However.... I soon discovered that the underlayment seam was almost directly centered over the 2X6 T&G subfloor. This subfloor had joists spaced 4 feet apart......... the floor is pretty solid tho, not bouncy.
Anyhow, I decided to do some subfloor sewing to eliminate the joint movement. I had a 5/8 dowel and a spade bit. I ground down the spade bit so the dowel would fit snugly.
Here is sewing 101. Holes are drilled into the center of the T&G of the subfloor.
Slathered up the holes real good with Chemrex...... slathered up the dowels and pounded em in.
Then I wiped off the excess bead of adhesive, and cut the dowels flush with the jambsaw. This ought to slow down the movement.
If I wasn't so far along, cutting out a section of the old underlayment and centering some new underlayment on the 2X6's would have been the preferred method.
Realize that the dowels are centered on the subfloor joint, not the underlayment joint that is visible here.
This very small amount of joint movement would probably not been an issue.................. BUT.... can you believe that the joint in my laminate planks almost EXACTY lined up with these other two joints............. man...speaking of some bad carma!
When removing tack strip that is underneath baseboard , use a reciprocating saw under the tack strip and cut the nails off. This works extremely well and does not mark up the base boards.
Don Monfils
Got a new one for ya Don. Ever taken up two layers of rubber backed carpet gued on top of each other? ............ well, the top one was a felt back...... must have taken a ton of glue.
I had a choice of tools............ much of this was on plywood.
Sawzall won out over the other tools.
Instead of pulling up the carpet, I used the sawzall to fillet one 10 inch section at a time. The added downward pressure created by leaving the carpet in place, made the blade cut off more cleanly and evenly. Each section was made with two cuts... first a 4 inch deep cut, then the second one as deep as the the blade would reach...... I then cut the section off, vacuumed the rubber 'saw dust' and made another cut. Not super fast, but it moved right along, and very little is left to scrape up, or sand off with the edger sander.
Stretched in carpet will go in next, so the scrapes in the floor will not matter.
My first post here. To lay your seam tape into the seam line, I use a small pair of channel locks to drag tape into seam from one end to other. Puts it in centered with hardly any fuss.
And a great first post it is too. Welcome Daris! That's a great idea. I bet you can do that with one hand and still hold the pizza slice in the other. Nice avatar -- and especially like the tag, "The One and Only" after the impostor used your name here a couple times. Glad to have you around.
Nice avatar -- and especially like the tag, "The One and Only" after the impostor used your name here a couple times. Glad to have you around.
