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May 11, 2010, 09:47 PM
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#31
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Tile Expert
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: NW Arkansas
Posts: 2,369
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Jim McClain said
And you are probably right. I am sorry. I edited all of my posts in this topic to tone it down and remove the derogatory accusations. As you can see, I also edited yours to remove that quote of mine.
Again, I'm sorry. I should have thought before posting. Thanks to all of those who aren't afraid to speak up when I am wrong.
Jim
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You're getting kinda flexible in your old age, Jim.
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May 11, 2010, 11:11 PM
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#32
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Fuzz on the brain
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: NW Montana
Posts: 2,274
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pblslee said
I think on the tube of chemtrex it says to wait at least 2 hours before streching. And you are supposed to mist with water.
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It speeds up the drying of the chemtrex. You can also do that on the PL Premium construction adhesive (which is less expensive and about the same).
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May 13, 2010, 09:26 PM
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#33
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Flooring Professional
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Oxnard, CA
Posts: 244
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I don't get using Chemrex for this application in the first place. I stopped using it because if it gets on wood or laminate it will etch the surface permanently.
Good old concrete nails will work fine. Never trim before you stretch!
I think his helper did the best job of all!
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May 13, 2010, 09:50 PM
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#34
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The One and Only
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Davison,Mi
Posts: 5,676
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3rdfloordesign said
I don't get using Chemrex for this application in the first place. I stopped using it because if it gets on wood or laminate it will etch the surface permanently.
Good old concrete nails will work fine. Never trim before you stretch!
I think his helper did the best job of all!
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Chemrex was used at the wrong time here but we also don't know the time frame the video was shot.
I will trim and tuck before stretching but I also will stretch away from it. Most times I can get a better transition that way.The same with using crimp down, I trim using the inside edge of the metal, bump it in and hammer down then work away from it whenever possible.
Daris
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May 13, 2010, 10:21 PM
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#35
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Lake Isabella, California
Posts: 377
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Sounds like a PAM GLUE GUN could be handy
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May 16, 2010, 09:00 PM
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#36
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You'll find me on the floor
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Montana
Posts: 2,510
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Daris Mulkin said
Chemrex was used at the wrong time here but we also don't know the time frame the video was shot.
I will trim and tuck before stretching but I also will stretch away from it. Most times I can get a better transition that way.The same with using crimp down, I trim using the inside edge of the metal, bump it in and hammer down then work away from it whenever possible.
Daris
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I do the same Daris, helps get the little bubble out that way which can sometimes happen as you're tucking the carpet.
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May 17, 2010, 02:15 PM
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#37
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a Floor Pro
Join Date: May 2006
Location: washington state/everett
Posts: 1,561
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some people ya just can't reach  i suggested/posted the way i would of/do/ done it.....the correct way. chemrex is a waste of time and money  literally............drill and drive
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May 17, 2010, 03:34 PM
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#38
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The One and Only
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Davison,Mi
Posts: 5,676
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May 17, 2010, 05:36 PM
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#39
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Administrative Assistant
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Boise, Idaho
Posts: 6,813
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I was taught to nail strip while kneeling on the tile, therby lessening the chances of chipping the tile while allowing a full meaningful swing of the hammer.
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May 17, 2010, 05:50 PM
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#40
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It is what it is
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Bottom left corner of Paradise
SW Florida
Posts: 953
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C'mon guys.....We all know there isn't only one right way. There's 4 or 5 different ways to achieve the same result. I installed tackless pretty much every way that's been described here. They all worked so they were all the right way to do it.
Oops.....One exception to that......The way that was shown in the video..That ain't right!!
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May 17, 2010, 06:18 PM
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#41
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You'll find me on the floor
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Montana
Posts: 2,510
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barrycarlton said
I was taught to nail strip while kneeling on the tile, therby lessening the chances of chipping the tile while allowing a full meaningful swing of the hammer.
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That's how I always nail tack strip up to tile as well as clampdown metals. For strip going up the the wall I position my body paralell with the wall. Works for me
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May 17, 2010, 06:21 PM
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#42
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Administrative Assistant
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Boise, Idaho
Posts: 6,813
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kylenelson said
That's how I always nail tack strip up to tile as well as clampdown metals. For strip going up the the wall I position my body paralell with the wall. Works for me
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I just sit way back on my honches to change the arc of the swing
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May 17, 2010, 06:21 PM
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#43
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Semi-Retired
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Missouri
Posts: 6,226
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I very seldom find it necessary to drill and drive. I can nail strip on almost any floor.
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May 17, 2010, 06:24 PM
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#44
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You'll find me on the floor
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Montana
Posts: 2,510
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barrycarlton said
I just sit way back on my honches to change the arc of the swing
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What exactly are your "honches"?
rusty baker said
I very seldom find it necessary to drill and drive. I can nail strip on almost any floor.
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Same here, I have only glued strip a couple of times.
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May 17, 2010, 06:35 PM
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#45
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Administrative Assistant
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Boise, Idaho
Posts: 6,813
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kylenelson said
What exactly are your "honches"?
Same here, I have only glued strip a couple of times.
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Okay okay, haunches.
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