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Carpet to tile transition on a concrete floor



"Carpet to tile transition on a concrete floor," in the Floorcovering Video Collection forum, begins: "rusty baker said I very seldom find it necessary to drill and drive. I can nail strip on almost any ..."


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Old May 17, 2010, 06:45 PM   #46
getoverit
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rusty baker said View Post
I very seldom find it necessary to drill and drive. I can nail strip on almost any floor.
Rusty....Ever work on a terrazzo floor? Lots of them down here. I guarantee you're not nailing them. I don't care how good you are with a hammer. You either drill or glue them. I know guys who insist Z-bar at tile transitions is the right way.

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Old May 17, 2010, 06:51 PM   #47
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getoverit said View Post
Rusty....Ever work on a terrazzo floor? Lots of them down here. I guarantee you're not nailing them. I don't care how good you are with a hammer. You either drill or glue them. I know guys who insist Z-bar at tile transitions is the right way.
Terrazzo isn't used in this part of the country and I was taught that trac-metal was the best transition between tile and carpet, but most residential customers don't like the look. They like that clean look of tack strip and tuck-in. I've seen z-bar fail too many times for me to use it.

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Old May 17, 2010, 06:56 PM   #48
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rusty baker said View Post
Terrazzo isn't used in this part of the country and I was taught that trac-metal was the best transition between tile and carpet, but most residential customers don't like the look. They like that clean look of tack strip and tuck-in. I've seen z-bar fail too many times for me to use it.
I'm with you on that Rusty...I hate Z-bar...

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Old May 17, 2010, 07:05 PM   #49
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From CRI 105 7.1.1
• Installation of tackstrip across door openings and/or sills should be avoided'

http://www.carpet-rug.org/pdf_word_docs/105.pdf (Scroll to 7.1.1 pg. 160)

Another reason not to put strip next to tile.


Last edited by Barry Carlton; May 17, 2010 at 07:22 PM. Reason: added link
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Old May 17, 2010, 07:41 PM   #50
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there's always tackstrip in door ways and transitions in my area. No problems either.

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Old May 17, 2010, 09:47 PM   #51
Sean Moore
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And this, ladies and gentlemen, is the state of our trade. I was pushing for certifications in 1990 but have since just became old and bitter. They get what they pay for, I'm done arguing about it.

re: chemrex: here in CO 2 hours is not enough time, even misting with water, I assume they are either overestimating the properties of their product or our low relative humidity and low slab moisture content make this so. 4 hours after it's applied and you can stretch gingerly on it. I always cut the strip into ~8in pieces so it conforms more easily to the humps in the floor and push them down in with the nose of the strip cutter. No nails.

For this job I would have just drilled and driven. I don't nail tackstrip for my own jobs anymore, I buy only standard (no nail) strip. Chemrex or drill/drive for concrete, 1/4in crown stapler for wood.

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Old May 18, 2010, 07:52 PM   #52
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Wow, that video was disturbing

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Old May 21, 2010, 03:03 PM   #53
Darren Ramey
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rusty baker said View Post
From CRI 105 7.1.1
• Installation of tackstrip across door openings and/or sills should be avoided'

http://www.carpet-rug.org/pdf_word_docs/105.pdf (Scroll to 7.1.1 pg. 160)

Another reason not to put strip next to tile.
I see this brought up a lot, but what else would work in this situation? I strip in front of doorways all the time. I hate the look of turn and tack, and on concrete it isn't even an option. This is one of those CRIisms that make me question if the people that wrote it have ever installed.

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Old May 21, 2010, 04:07 PM   #54
Peter Kodner
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Darren Ramey said View Post
I see this brought up a lot, but what else would work in this situation? I strip in front of doorways all the time. I hate the look of turn and tack, and on concrete it isn't even an option. This is one of those CRIisms that make me question if the people that wrote it have ever installed.
7.7 Transition molding – Where carpet meets other floor coverings, the edges
must be adequately protected with an appropriate transition molding.
7.7.1 Sealing – Edges placed into transitional moldings may require sealing to
prevent raveling.


Always creates arguments, but the answer is pretty clearly stated...

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Old May 21, 2010, 04:23 PM   #55
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I always tell homeowners about transitions and offer them, but most HOs don't want them. They don't like the way they look and I don;t blame them, IMHO, they look terrible. But I make sure that they know that is the way it's supposed to be done.

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Old May 21, 2010, 04:52 PM   #56
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rusty baker said View Post
I always tell homeowners about transitions and offer them, but most HOs don't want them. They don't like the way they look and I don;t blame them, IMHO, they look terrible. But I make sure that they know that is the way it's supposed to be done.
Sometimes transistions are the only option, especially in vinyl installations.

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Old May 21, 2010, 05:28 PM   #57
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I consider a schluter a transition molding, otherwise, what is it for? Since I don't install schluter: if it's not there I tuck to the tile. I am always damn impressed when I find schluter in a residential setting, it's like most residential tile guys haven't even heard of it.

I have sometimes wondered whether the CRI wants us to use pin metal or strip style clamp metal. Doesn't really matter to me, I use the strip style because pin metal looks bad after the carpet wears. Most everyone here in CO wants clamp metal only, even on wood and: "silver please". I remember putting down a lot of gold flat bar back in D.C.

I like using seam sealer down in the gutter when going to tile, if the boss doesn't bring it I staple the "nose" of the tuck as neatly as possible. I'm confident that the seam sealer (commercial style) will hold that carpet down in the gutter and as long as you've stretched the carpet as opposed to only using a kicker the stretch should keep it on the pins.

Has anyone used Orcon FastLock or comparable sealer down in there? Anyone use a glue gun?

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Old May 21, 2010, 05:58 PM   #58
Darren Ramey
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Peter Kodner said View Post
7.7 Transition molding – Where carpet meets other floor coverings, the edges
must be adequately protected with an appropriate transition molding.
7.7.1 Sealing – Edges placed into transitional moldings may require sealing to
prevent raveling.


Always creates arguments, but the answer is pretty clearly stated...
Just because it is stated doesn't make it right. "Because I said so" stopped working on me about the time I hit my teens. Carpet tucked to tile and hardwood looks best, and if you get the height right, is less of a trip hazard.

What is the reasoning behind not using strip? The pad will be thicker most of the time, so there shouldn't be any extra wear on the edge unless you double it up, and I would agree that that is a bad idea. I've seen carpets shredded and pulling out of metal a lot more often than wearing at strip. A lot of the rules are just in there to protect the mills, but this doesn't even do that. I just can't see why it is in there.

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Old May 24, 2010, 10:58 AM   #59
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Darren Ramey said View Post

What is the reasoning behind not using strip? The pad will be thicker most of the time, so there shouldn't be any extra wear on the edge unless you double it up, and I would agree that that is a bad idea. I've seen carpets shredded and pulling out of metal a lot more often than wearing at strip. A lot of the rules are just in there to protect the mills, but this doesn't even do that. I just can't see why it is in there.
Very true. I have seen more carpet shredded up and pulling out of clamp down than I have in front of tack strip. If done properly it should be just as good, if not better than a metal/rubber transistion.

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Old May 24, 2010, 08:33 PM   #60
Robert Akin
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[http://www.creativecarpetrepair.com/


Berber cpt repair video



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