adhering cove base or skirting

[BrianM]

strip buster said wrap, ther only break in the skirt is to start a new roll.mostly we use feather edge skirt.i do 95% commercial and usually requires skirt after job so this rookie uses it every day.

**
What is feather edge skirt?

[FlooringGirl]

That seems pretty good, $6K a week!! - we are still now paying .50 a foot. I always get 4' (that's what everyone likes), unless I'm required to get rolls.

Tia

rgfloor said Having hung pallets, yes pallets of the stuff, I'll tell ya I like the look of continous roll material, but prefer working with 4 ft. And I am with Peter, push that gun.... don't pull that thang. You have a whole lot better control of the amount applied. It may be a little slower than pulling but not much. I personally wore out two of the big metal Gundlach guns. Contractor calls one day and says "I need ya to hang some base" me (OK where at) "the courthouse renovation he says, everything will be delivered on Friday can ya start Mon?" Me: "sure" When I showed up on Monday there were 3 pallets of base and a pallet of adhesive tubes 12,000 ft of black 4 inch coils. Late 80's and getting 50 cents a foot, took two weeks.

[rgfloor]

FlooringGirl said That seems pretty good, $6K a week!! - we are still now paying .50 a foot. I always get 4' (that's what everyone likes), unless I'm required to get rolls. Tia

Actually 6K for the whole job, took two weeks, or 3K a week. I took the next week off, lazy bum that I am.

[BrianM]

Robert Akin said The telegraphing is usually caused by to much adhesive. It does not take much to hold it on there. Also one thing you have to keep in mind is base adhesive shrinks as it sets up in effect as to suck the base tighter to the wall. So using it as a filler can cause issues.

**
I did a bunch of the .080 gauge base quite a few years ago. Haven't seen it in at least a decade but I don't think you could use any kind of gun on it. I remember one big job with white/light tan flat base and there was low angle sunlight pouring on almost every inch of wall-------if that's even possible. Anyway you had to use very, very little adhesive and press it on ever so lightly or you'd see big depressions where your rag or roller squished the glue around creating lumps and bubbles. It was horrible and those jobs seemed to never end. Seems like a zillion feet I did like that one job after another. Of course it was probably only half a zillion.

[Peter Kodner]

Tia, now we know why you aren't getting those commercial jobs: your math skills!

12000 ft@ $.50ft = $6,000. $6000/ 2 weeks = 3000 per week. Still two very good weeks though! I would think they were pretty long days installing 1,200 ft per day

Oops! Didn't see Roger's reply

[FlooringGirl]

I try to sell rubber as much as possible, to avoid some of these issues.

Tia

[BrianM]

rgfloor said Actually 6K for the whole job, took two weeks, or 3K a week. I took the next week off, lazy bum that I am.

How many hours?

[FlooringGirl]

LOL, my bad late night math!!

Tia

rgfloor said Actually 6K for the whole job, took two weeks, or 3K a week. I took the next week off, lazy bum that I am.

[rgfloor]

I figured I had 90 hours in it and a kid followed me to clean up all the scrap, cartons and do a final wipe with a damp cloth.

The great part of it was that the hallways did not have ANY ouside corners. They put metal edges on every outside corner to protect them from wheeled carts that were used to transport files.

Brian knows how you can fly with no corners to do.

[BrianM]

Robert Akin said I do believe you get a nicer outside corner if you contact it because it holds the toe and the lower part of the base better to the wall. Keeps the base from riding up at the toe. Especially if you have some floor unevenness. Rob

*
You do this on every corner?

[kylenelson]

BrianM said ' I use the base gouge for all my outside corners. It's set to take out about 2/3 of the material or more. Inside corners will "wrap" with black or brown rubber base on square, plumb corners. Light colors, irregular walls/floors or vinyl plastic material typically require scribing. I barely recall using the base gun once or twice. I'd give it a try if someone I worked for wanted to buy glue tubes rather than buckets but honestly I never gave it a fair shot. I think it would be fine with Burke base on perfect walls but the three lines of glue oozed through the nozzle would telegraph through certain colors, gauges and types of base so it's not going to be something I would consider standard or universal. I can see where 12 foot of base here and there under toe kicks a couple times a month would be efficient to have the tube/nozzle set up. It's just not what I see being done on commercial jobs to any extent.

I pretty much ONLY install Johnsonite rubber base, never have I seen an issue with telegraphing, but I understand it might be different with vinyl bases and thinner gauge rubber. I love getting your perspective from having to be super efficient and do everything in high quantity. Where as if I hang 600 feet in a day I'm satisfied...especially since we get 1.00 a foot to hang it

[BrianM]

strip buster said likewise usin some sort of paste would get you laughed back to the states. i don't see how you say contact is rookie stuff dude,paste would be inferior to contact,slower and messier and if your using it to fill a plasterers faulty wall then you are fixing some one elses problem at your own expense.we demand a smooth solid wall or we walk.contact doesn't profile and i don't need a rag to clean up cause there is nothing to clean up.if you haven't tried it(in 35yrs)then you don't see the benifits.....old dog new tricks etc.

*
Don't take offense. It would be considered by me and pretty much everyone I work with "rookie" if you NEED to use contact cement, tape, hot melt, epoxy, corner clamps, deck screws...........(OK, now I'm kidding) on your corners here in the states. Maybe your skirting is significantly different than what we use? Acrylic paste is a breeze to work with. You don't get it on the floor, the wall or your hands to any extent when you're good. The rag get's lightly rinsed out 2-3 times a day and stays CLEAN......if you're good. It's there for a tiny ooze here and there, that's it. When there's too many corners I don't work "wet" for that reason. I'll prefit the pieces and then either glue them one by one or go ahead and smear the wall. Either way you can't be getting all saturated with paste. That ain't going to work in your favor.

We rarely see smooth, solid walls anywhere near Mexifornia. This isn't Kansas anymore Toto. Paste will fill some small voids. We are often expected to bust off the lumps the caveman drywall guy leaves at the bottom of every drywall seam. I can do all that and easily get 800 feet a day so my customer is happy and my boss is happy. On the kind of walls you talk about I'm going to coast and clear 1000 easy. We just don't see much of that so 700-800 is more the norm. What are your typical commercial production quotas? YES, every big union shop has quotas.

I can see where if you were using contact the walls would HAVE to be perfect. I'm jealous........I think.

[strip buster]

BrianM said ** What is feather edge skirt?

feather edge is the skirt with the toe at the bottom instead of being just 'flat' skirting.,little bit differant to what you guys have as is our diminishing strips(reducers).

[BrianM]

strip buster said feather edge is the skirt with the toe at the bottom instead of being just 'flat' skirting.,little bit differant to what you guys have as is our diminishing strips(reducers).

*
You sure talk funny!

OK, our cove base or topset base are what you're calling feather edge skirt but we don't really know what the contour, size, flexibility or other characteristics might also vary. I suspect if you're routinely using contact then it's not going to be very similar stuff. It just wouldn't make sense.

Your flat skirt will be called here either flat base, carpet base or toeless base. I know its weird to call rubber base without a toe "carpet base" and it's a source of much confusion. We also have actual carpet base that's either bound or capped with metal or vinyl. So that get's mixed up.

[strip buster]

in 2o yrs i've only put 'actual' carpet skirt on once,doesn't get used a great deal.in 20 yrs all i have used as everyone in this country is contact,in fact the drums of contact are actuall called skirting contact and then you can drop down to spray grade contact that also does the job well...... now this boa tape, it is quick easy and has more than enough nuts to stay in place on internal and external corners.,i was impressed and actually enjoyed putting on the skirting as for the cost i guess if your hanging it quicker you can put a lot more down in a day. the offset of the price should be passed onto the consumer anyway right?

ROBERTS 101S Skirting Contact Adhesive
Composition: Neoprene Synthetic Rubber Solids: 22% Approx
Tack-up: 5-10 minutes at 20°C **
USE: Roberts 101S Skirting Contact Adhesive is a specifically formulated solvent based, rapid drying contact cement with high strength, excellent ageing and heat resistance. It is designed for use on most vinyl and plastic skirtings, coverstrips, plastic and metal treads and nosings etc.