Pergo Cherry Planked differences

[larry60]

I installed Pergo CHerry Planked (PH 4584) several years ago. I have some water damage and need to replace about 80 sq ft. I have three boxes (60 sq. ft) of the 4584 but now Pergo's Cherry Planked (4712) has a different locking system and the planks are slightly wider. I have looked everywhere I know but can't find the older cherry. Does anyone have a suggestion?

[Pamela A]

How well do the colors match between the old and the new planks; and where in the room is the damage? There may be a way to use the new plank with the old but whether it will look o.k. depends on those two questions.

[larry60]

Pamela, the color between the two is almost exact so that's not a problem. The room is the front foyer so everyone that walks in the front door will see it.

Thanks for any suggestions!

[Jim McClain]

Hi Larry,

Is there a chance you can use our upload system to show us some pictures? Closeups of the "tongue & groove" would be good, as well as the area you want to repair. It may be possible to remove the bad section in full rows, fill in full rows of the new and attach old and new together with a revised method of gluing. Because the width is different, it would necessitate replacing whole rows. If the bad area is away from a wall, you could remove all rows back to the last of the bad, replace whole rows with new, then whole rows of what's left of the old ones that are still good.

Have you considered asking a local pro to do the repair?

Jim

[Pamela A]

This is what my installer had in mind:

-Remove the damage stuff and replace as many full rows as you can with the old planks you have.

-Install the old planks until the last FULL row you can install

-get some flooring tongues (available from Wilsonart as "Slip Tongues")

-get a router bit that matches the size of the flooring tongues



Photo from Tool Home

-rout the edge of the last row of old planks

-cut off the tongue of the first row of the new planks and rout the edge

note: be sure not to rout too far into the planks - just enough for half of the tongue to go in plus a tiny amount of space for the glue.

-glue the flooring tongue into the groove you made on the old planks using just a small amount of glue. It's very important not to over glue as hydraulics will prevent you from pulling the boards tightly together

-test to make sure the new plank fits to the old plank, if it does, place a small amount of glue inside the groove you made on the new plank

-slide the new board onto the tongue you just glued into the old board, wiping any excess glue from the surface.

-tape the boards together to hold them in place

-leave it alone for a couple days until the glue dries

-then finish installing the rest of the floor using the new planks as instructed by the manufacturer

Those are the instructions as dictated by my installer. I would recommend getting a pro to do the work for you - and make sure it's a pro that has done this kind of work successfully - or selling the old plank on e-bay or amazon and redo the whole room.

Hope this helps some

[larry60]

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I had thought about replacing whole rows with the new flooring but there lies a problem that I am not sure I want to tackle. From the foyer to the kitchen is the back of a stone fireplace which I had to cut each plank with a jigsaw to go around the stone. It was very time consuming and a pain. I was hoping to just replace the old warped wood and then use the same planks back to the kitchen. After thinking about it, we have decided to just put tile at the front door so if it leaks again it won't ruin the flooring. Once I have done that I can replace the remaining floor with my old planks and will have plenty of wood.

Again, thanks for all your suggestions.

[Pamela A]

Sounds like you have a plan

[ortiz34]

I was skeptic but you pulled it off, good to hear.