what tools to use to install hardwoods

[lakebuilder]

I'm ready to start installing 1750 sq ft of 3/4 x 2 1/4 prefinished hardwood floor. Rather than rent a nailer I thought I may as well buy one and then I can do the project at my own pace. Any recomendations as to what brand to buy or what brand to avoid? Also would a nailer or stapler both do an equally good job? One last question, would I need the plastic shoes for the nailer being the floor is prefinished? thanks.

[Danny Ferguson]

I've heard alot of good things about Senco. You can pick up a manual hammer type for around $250. Air assited might be double the price. I would stay with a cleat rather than a staple.

[skhardwoods]

Though when I started out, I started with a Powernail model 45, I now use a pneumatic gun. Staples or cleats are like Ford or Chevy, each has its fans, neither will do you wrong. I will say that if I'm installing an exotic, I've found the cleats to be less likely to cause splitting of the tongues. Buy a new gun, or a used one on Ebay, then sell it when you are done. Beats renting tools. If you go with the air, a 1 1/2 horse twin tank will do fine. I use a Senco, but that new Porter Cable with the big wheels and pop up handle, is calling my name. Yes, I would upgrade just to avoid having to pack that heavy compressor any more.
A good finish nailer makes starting and finishing rows a simple task, but predrilling and hand nailing will work, just a bit more time consuming.I cut the head off a finish nail, and use it as a drill bit. Perfect size hole, and you'll never break a bit.
Unless your going to get really creative, a table saw will handle most tasks; I have an 8 1/2 and a 10 inch, but use 40t, 7 1/4 " blades for cutting 3/4" stuff, on both. Blades are plentiful and cheap.

I'm sure some can add to this, but I will also point out, that acclimating your wood flooring, on site, until it is within standards, will go a long way in assuring your job will look as good one year from now, as it does at the time you finish installing it. Strip flooring should be within 4% of the sub floor readings.

[Nick Arrera]

You can get a decent chop saw for $100.00 . finish nailer for 1/4 round .

[lesakflooring]

Ive seen some crews that use just circular saw and manual nailers. I work smarter not harder.
tool list

Bostich M III stapler for oaks and other softer woods.
Cleats for the hard stuff maple, brazilian cherry ect.
They come with nylon foot just keep it clean if you get grit embedded in it it will scratch the floor everytime you drive a fastener.
Min 1 hp air comp. OIL OIL OIL (oilless wont last)DeWalts work just fine for me.
15 ga finish for top nail on raw wood.
18 ga or 22 ga pin for pre finish.
Undercut saw for door jambs and fireplace hearths (sometimes)
10" table saw I use a 7 1/4" blade on mine, more torque won't bog down saw when doing long rips.
Jig saw for cutting around pipes vents other radius cuts.
BIG screw driver or wood chisel for last few rows, cheap way. Wall jack, right way but expensive, $200+
10" miter saw a good one and set it up correctly. make sure a 90 degree cut is 90 degrees and a 45 is a 45 not 45 1/2 or 44.
Your work should rival that of a cabinet maker.

[c park]

Flooring is among the most important element in the construction or renovation of your home or office. Some property owners do not settle on any other flooring material except of hardwood, because of its beauty and durability. But these consumers seek to balance cost versus return when looking to install hardwood floors. Here is a quick look at some of the benefits of installing hardwood floors.

[Al Gladden]

i would recommend staples over cleats.

[steve h]

This is old school, but I prefer 15 pound fell like I said that's old-school, but I find that it alleviates the concern about the moisture difference between subfloor and the floor is being installed. As for tools to be used that subjects been well covered. There is no reason for me to inject my personal feelings between saw, nail guns, air compressors.

HAVE A GREAT DAY

[Chris Mha]

Steve, 15-pound felt does not alleviate the concern about moisture between the subfloor and the flooring. It is not a moisture barrier. Lesak, top of your list should be a good moisture meter. I also use a 7 1/4 ich blade in my 10 inch table saw. I have no need to extend that blade 3" above the table. Hell of a lot cheaper and they last just as log.

[Floorguy]

For crisp cuts where I need a perfect edge, I always set my 10" blade up as far as it will go, so the teeth almost come straight down into the wood. Way less chipping, even with a duller blade.

[cproader]

Originally Posted by Floorguy For crisp cuts where I need a perfect edge, I always set my 10" blade up as far as it will go, so the teeth almost come straight down into the wood. Way less chipping, even with a duller blade.

Yep, that's why I gotta have a 10" too.

[lesakflooring]

Yup Chris you are correct. I forgot all about checkin moisture, kinda left that in the CAN I install wood at this time catagory, Not the installation itself. Sorry to have missed that, it is the most important tool for hardwood.

[barrycarlton]

Originally Posted by Floorguy For crisp cuts where I need a perfect edge, I always set my 10" blade up as far as it will go, so the teeth almost come straight down into the wood. Way less chipping, even with a duller blade.

For safety sake, there is no subsistute for a sharp blade. With a sharp blade there is no need for any more than 3 teeth to be above the work piece.

barry

[rusty baker]

Looking at floors around here, chain saw, sledge hammer, roofing nails, axe

[barrycarlton]

Originally Posted by rusty baker Looking at floors around here, chain saw, sledge hammer, roofing nails, axe