This discussion, "Feathering into exitsing floors", in Hardwood and Laminates Q&A (part of the category Do-It-Yourself & Consumer Support), begins, "Hi all,
I'm looking at installing additional 2 1/4 x 3/4 red oak to match existing floors I currently have ..."
I'm looking at installing additional 2 1/4 x 3/4 red oak to match existing floors I currently have in. Two rooms were carpeted and I have removed this to continue the hardwoods throughout.
Question is, when they ended the original hardwoods against the carpet, they used a perpendicular board to end the transition. When I go to install (this will all be sanded and refinished), should I remove this board and try to feather in or simply start from this point outwards?
If feathering in, any suggestions or expert guidance on how best to attack this piece of the install?
If pics will help, let me know and I can take and post some tonight.
I think a picture might describe this better. When ending hardwood at a room with different material, I liked the transition piece to be paralel with the doorway, regardless of the direction of the hardwood. Many times this required the transition board to be beveled down to meet a lower material (or to prevent a trip zone at the edge of carpet or vinyl).
If, however, the hardwood will be continuing throughout the rooms, you may have an either/or situation. Some may like to separate the 2 areas with a perpendicular board and some may prefer to just continue the hardwood through the doorway as if it were just another obstacle. This method might require you to run a couple of rows through to the other side of that room and then continue groove-to-tongue installation one side and reverse direction with a spline on the other side so that you can finish the room groove-to-tongue.
But a picture might help us help you decide better what's best in your situation - and there are prob'ly more options than the 2 I gave above.
The original wood has been down for about 15 years - red oak, natural finish.
I am going to be putting in the same wood (raw of course), red oak. Brought a piece into the store and they told me northern red oak is what I had and what I should get from them...I would assume the match should be pretty exact, unless someone wants to tell me different??
If you are sanding and staining it should not make too much difference.
As for lacing it in, that can be time consuming and expensive. I personally like the use of a header board to split the rooms off. It is much easier to do and often not very noticeable.
You should also stay with the same grade of oak...... that appears to be a select grade from the color variance and average board lenghts...... could also be a clear grade, but I doubt it.
I would not recommend lacing in this floor ..... you would have to tear back along ways because of the long board lengths. You could create your own butt joints near the opening but it would look obvious that you laced it. I suggest using a double header board.
Last edited by Jerry Thomas; July 18, 2008 at 02:13 AM.
You would see the lacing with two different color woods , and that would not look good ..
you can put a 1 1/8 ' strip of another , a full board , then another strip to accent the doorways ..
I have done that many a time , looks nice ..
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I'd do the header board. Much less trouble and looks good too. Plus, with the age on the older floor, I doubt your colors would match anyway. As wood ages, I find that it tends to change color.
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