newbie and beginner seeking some advice...

[babyruthie]

We placed the order today and we should have the materials by late next week to start acclimating it to the house.

I have a quick question - I am not sure if this is going to make any sense.. We have 2 openings into the kitchen and needed to get reducers to make up for the difference in the flooring. The kitchen has vinyl tiles.

So anyway - if I do the wood all in one direction and the entry hall is going short-ways across the hallway - how does the reducer attach to the flooring? It appears as on the website that the reducer has a groove that the tongue would go in - what happens when the wood strips are running perpendicular to the reducer.

Does that make any sense?

Also - where can I get a reasonably cheap but still accurate moisture meter. Any suggestions on ones that are good.

Thanks,
Ruth

[rgfloor]

Here is one for $30 bucks. Sonin is a good name.


Moisture Test Meter | Weather Instruments | Northern Tool + Equipment

Another for $20 bucks.

http://www.amazon.com/MD-4G-Wood-Moi...9453331&sr=1-9

[Kman]

Reducers (at least the one I use) don't fit into a groove, they rest on the lower floor, with a lip that "rolls over" the higher floor. You would still leave an expansion joint between the two floors. I usually nail them in with finish nails.

A T-mold will need a groove between the two floors, I usually leave about 3/4-7/8". They're for use when the floors are the same height, or at least very close.

[babyruthie]

Originally Posted by Kman Reducers (at least the one I use) don't fit into a groove, they rest on the lower floor, with a lip that "rolls over" the higher floor. You would still leave an expansion joint between the two floors. I usually nail them in with finish nails. A T-mold will need a groove between the two floors, I usually leave about 3/4-7/8". They're for use when the floors are the same height, or at least very close.

Here is a link to the moldings from the Somerset website. It appears to me that it would need a piece of tongue to fit in.

Somerset Hardwood Floors

Will this work for us if we have the sides of the boards at the entrance to the kitchen with the reducer??

[Kman]

If the difference in height between the two floors is either 1/2" or 3/4", then yes, that would work. You could nail the reducer in place. The ones I'm referring to look like this:



The higher section of the floor would be on the right side of the reducer, the left side would sit on the floor. It doesn't require the height difference to be exactly 1/2" or 3/4", it will accomodate some variance in height.

Usually when I'm in need of T-molds or reducers, I go through the manufacturer as a last resort. Several big box stores carry matching molding that is the exact same thing at a greatly reduced price. I can save a customer as much as $18 per piece.

[babyruthie]

Thanks so much kman..

There was only one kind of reducer that we could get from the company. We thought it would be better to spend the extra and get them from the company since we have a more unique type of flooring. It is a maple and it is a specific color - we didn't think to look at the store to see what they have.

I think the difference in the floors will be close around 3/4. We have vinyl in the kitchen and currently have carpet and you can noticably see a height difference.

Will the type of one that we are getting work??

We should be getting our order delivered mid-week - so we'll be able to look at them and see.

[Kman]

Sometimes, it can be difficult to get the right color reducer, and I've had to bite the bullet, or the customer does, and order from the manufacturer.


I guess if the reducer sitting on top of the vinyl made it a little higher than the wood floor, you could sand down the back of the reducer to make it to the right height. Other than that I don't know of any way to make them match up.

One important thing, though. If you use a reducer as posted in your link above, make certain the ends of the wood are absolutely flush and straight all the way across the door opening. The best way to accomplish this might be to screw a straight piece of 1x4 in the floor to use as a stopping point.

Incidentally, the type of reducer that I use negates the need for an ABSOLUTELY straight edge, as the lip will cover up the edge of the wood. However, the ones you're looking do make a better finished look. They're just usually harder to get and more expensive, so a lot of my customers don't want to wait the extra time or pay the extra money for them.

Good luck with your project, keep your fingers clear of the saw blade.

[babyruthie]

Where can I find aquabar? I checked all the local stores and I did not see it anywhere. You can't buy it on the Fortifiber website. I tried contacting them and there are no distributors or resellers in my state.

We were considering this underlayment because of the recommendations of this forum, Please Help!!


Ruth

[babyruthie]

Hi again - I have one more question. We are getting down to the wire here and I am prepping to make sure we have all the tools necessary.,

We bought an air stapler/nailer at Harbor Freight (on sale $10 off the price online)

It takes 1 1/2" - 2" cleats or staples. Which would be better?

Also, I called about the Aquabar - and the company that sells it online wants to charge a ridiculous amount for shipping. Almost the cost of the product itself. Is it worth $40 for the underlaymnet - the better quality tar from the flooring place was $18.00.

Also, Since we got the floor we were laying out some boards over the carpet to see what it looked like in the different layouts. We are going to go with all one direction.

Here is a pic of the floor.



Thanks so much!
ruth