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Mouldings on Gray Creamic tile look Laminate


This discussion, "Mouldings on Gray Creamic tile look Laminate", in Hardwood and Laminates Q&A (part of the category Do-It-Yourself & Consumer Support), begins, "I'm installing a Gray ceramic tile look laminate. I need some opinions on mouldings. The doors and door trim are ..."

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Old August 27, 2008, 03:48 AM
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Mouldings on Gray Creamic tile look Laminate

I'm installing a Gray ceramic tile look laminate. I need some opinions on mouldings. The doors and door trim are stained wood. They make a 1/4 round to match the flooring(grey). Not sure if I should put the matching 1/4 round or stained wood like the doors and trim? One problem is that one wall is whitish gray brick from ceiling to floor with a mantle on the floor in the middle of the wall for the fireplace. How do I put moulding along the brick wall to hide the expansion gap?
What is normally done?
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Old August 27, 2008, 04:50 AM
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Re: Mouldings on Gray Creamic tile look Laminate

I don't know if this is the way it's normally done, but on my brick fireplace I glued a piece of 1/4 round with construction adhesive. If the brick face is relatively smooth and straight, it should look fine.

You might want to use a dab of glue every foot or so, just enough to keep in place. Too much and you'll never be able to remove it in the future if the need arises.
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Old August 27, 2008, 05:19 AM
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Re: Mouldings on Gray Creamic tile look Laminate

I always prefer the 1/4 round to match the vertical surface it is going against (cabinet, baseboard, etc.) Otherwise, it gives the appearance that the floor is turned up the wall, cabinet, or whatever.

If you're half way handy, you can use a masonry bit to drill holes in the mortar joints, plug them with appropriately sized dowel, and shoot the trim on with a brad nailer. I would still like a bead of construction adhesive with it though. Another trick for glueing is to run your construction adhesive then a glob of hot melt glue every couple of feet and quickly place and apply pressure. The hot glue isn't a permanent bond, but a quick bond to give the other glue time to cure.

All that being said, my prefered method is to undercut the brick (with a diamond blade) creating a space for the flooring to lay under the edge of the brick and allowing room for required expansion. No moulding required. This method is probably better left to pro's, however as it is potentialy dangerous and messy, and requires specific tools and skills.
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Old August 27, 2008, 06:30 AM
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Re: Mouldings on Gray Creamic tile look Laminate

Stain your trim to match the other and undercut the brick.
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Old August 27, 2008, 07:42 AM
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Re: Mouldings on Gray Creamic tile look Laminate

I have a 2" high baseboard in the rest of the house. Would it look ok to just use the 1/4 round by itself in that room. I'm not going to try to undercut the brick and I don't want a high moulding on the brick wall.
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Old August 27, 2008, 11:58 AM
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Re: Mouldings on Gray Creamic tile look Laminate

I don't see why not.
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Old August 27, 2008, 03:17 PM
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Re: Mouldings on Gray Creamic tile look Laminate

You [i]could[i] use an end molding/squarenose type transition at the brick wall if the wall is smooth enough across the face and skip the 1/4 round and wall base completely. The transitions are designed to cover an expansion space too.

One thing I have done, is to trim one side off of a T molding and use that for an end molding. That's a little smaller than many end moldings out there, and a little more pleasing to the eye.
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Old August 27, 2008, 06:44 PM
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Re: Mouldings on Gray Creamic tile look Laminate

If I used the T moulding or transition , what would I put on the other three walls?
Or could I put the T moulding cut off on the brick wall ,and a base or small shoe moulding on the other walls.
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Old August 28, 2008, 02:21 AM
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Re: Mouldings on Gray Creamic tile look Laminate

Originally Posted by doublebonus View Post
If I used the T moulding or transition , what would I put on the other three walls?
Or could I put the T moulding cut off on the brick wall ,and a base or small shoe moulding on the other walls.
I would use the transition/T-molding at the brick, and use base or shoe everywhere else.
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