This discussion, "Sanding to Poly Finish", in Hardwood and Laminates Q&A (part of the category Public Forums for the floor Pro, Do-It-Yourselfer & Consumer), begins, "Here's a quick question.... As I get ready to sand my hardwood floor I am wondering if I just need ..."
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Here's a quick question.... As I get ready to sand my hardwood floor I am wondering if I just need to vacuum up the sawdust and tack cloth the floor or if I should be using compressed air to blow out every bit of sawdust before I start coating. Thanks for any tips!!
Vacuum,vacuum,vacuum. Most of the wood guys I see they sand, vacuum alot, then cloth sweep. Once that dust gets airborn it takes hours to settle so don't blow it, vacuum.
Even a thorough vacuum job won't get all the dust and dirt from the floor. A tack cloth is necessary, or you could use a cloth dampened with mineral spirits. Make sure the floor is dried well before applying the finish. It's also a good idea to vacuum the window ledges, the top of your fireplace, any horizontal suface close to the work area that might contain dust.
Also make sure to turn off HVAC systems while you apply the finish, and until it solid enough to walk on barefoot.
Have you finished a floor with polyurethane before? Curious what you are using: oil modified, water based or moisture curing. This will affect what you should should on your tacking cloths as well.
I would highly recommend you read the NWFA directives for all the procedures for sanding and finishing before tackling this job. Even if you are a very experienced DIY this may be a job you want to have a professional perform.
Thanks for the info. Glad I asked about vacuuming versus blowing. I am using water based Fabulon with a weighted Lamswool applicator in 6 coats. I will be sanding it myself getting a rental sander from the local Menards. Everyone I've talked to says it's a great machine and even the guy I bought the wood from would have used the same rental so I'm excited to sand. By the way as I promised pics so far... Thanks again!
You didn't say if you are staining or leaving it natural (I'm hoping you stay natural- a beautiful floor!). I love the 45 angle in the flooring with the horizontal knotty pine. Very good looking.
With water based finish, do not tack with mineral spirits. Use a slightly damp (water) cloth. Don't skip any of the scheduled grits and make sure you get the corners done with each grit before use the floor machine with the next higher grit.
Do you have a disc machine for your intercoat abrasion?
The floor is staying natural. The intercoat abrasion will be done manually with 3M scotch pads purchased from the supplier I got the Poly from. Thanks again..
That's an awesome question.. The inserts are as follows.. I will lay ceramic tile on top of the inserted subfloor which has room for expansion adjustment and the final placement of a free standing fireplace so if i need it to square I can and lay the tile to meet the hardwood floor at close to even leaving a simple transition. The Entry Is a drop zone where you will not hit the wood floor upon entry and drop your shoes whether they have sand, dirt, etc.. before you hit the wood floor and by leaving an area that is a dedicated 3' x 5' rug area after a small down trasition is considered a rug will always fit in and be changed by the wife with the seasons but not be pushed away by the door openeing.. I think I am a genius.. Or Not??
