Prefinished Hardwood board replacement

[pblnslee]

I have to replace a board in the middle of a room. 3/8 prefinished Mohawk.

Anyone have any good tips on how to get the old board out. And how to get the new board in without damaging any boards around it.

[Curt Durand]

1. Pick a good replacement board.
   
2. Blue masking tape on the adjacent boards the exact outline of the board being removed. Make it a wide outline to protect the adjacent good boards.
   
3. Rotozip, vibration saw (Fein), router, saw, chisel the center line of the bad board lengthwise and run cuts into each corner. Can also cut close to the perimeter if you feel confident you can control the cutter. Makes removal easier.
   
4. Stapled, nailed or cleated boards should pry up or tap out easily. Chisel works best for this. Glued down boards need to be chiseled out and try to not damage the underlying subflooring.
   
5. Test fit the replacement board and adjust size so it does not bind but fits just snug. Run a short piece of fishing line under the replacement board so you can pull it out and not get it stuck.
   
6. Now you need to trim off the two edges of the replacement boards with grooves. Trim only the bottom of the groove off. Chisel, saw, etc. You need these trimmed bottom groove edges to sit on top of the adjacent boards tongues cleanly.
   
7. Trim off about 3" to 4" of the long side tongue nearest the end with a tongue on your replacement board. This makes it easier to slip the board into the adjacent boards grooves easier.
   
8. Test fit again. Remember the fishing line or floss. If the board fits in snug you are ready to glue it in. Pull it out.
   
9. Use a good wood glue on the adjacent good boards tongue tops and on the replacement board's top side of it's tongue. I use PL-400 on the exposed subfloor but be careful not to put down too much or the board will not level out with the adjacent boards.
   
10. Press the replacement board down firmly and wipe off any excess glue ooze. I like to put baords covering the replacement board and weigh it down with brick or books to hold it until the adhesives set. Usually 24 hours.

There are much clearer instructions available for free on the web. Just Goggle wood flooring replacement. Also check out the similar posts from past discussions.

[TFP Admin]

Curt Durand said There are much clearer instructions available for free on the web. Just Goggle wood flooring replacement. Also check out the similar posts from past discussions.

I think your instructions were very clear - and they are free too. I took the liberty of editing to format your instructions in list form. I hope you don't mind.

and THANKS!

Jim

[Dan Schultz]

From an inspection last week. I missed the shots of the cuts before the piece was removed.

[Chris Flynn]

Curt Durand said Pick a good replacement board. Blue masking tape on the adjacent boards the exact outline of the board being removed. Make it a wide outline to protect the adjacent good boards. Rotozip, vibration saw (Fein), router, saw, chisel the center line of the bad board lengthwise and run cuts into each corner. Can also cut close to the perimeter if you feel confident you can control the cutter. Makes removal easier. Stapled, nailed or cleated boards should pry up or tap out easily. Chisel works best for this. Glued down boards need to be chiseled out and try to not damage the underlying subflooring. Test fit the replacement board and adjust size so it does not bind but fits just snug. Run a short piece of fishing line under the replacement board so you can pull it out and not get it stuck. Now you need to trim off the two edges of the replacement boards with grooves. Trim only the bottom of the groove off. Chisel, saw, etc. You need these trimmed bottom groove edges to sit on top of the adjacent boards tongues cleanly. Trim off about 3" to 4" of the long side tongue nearest the end with a tongue on your replacement board. This makes it easier to slip the board into the adjacent boards grooves easier. Test fit again. Remember the fishing line or floss. If the board fits in snug you are ready to glue it in. Pull it out. Use a good wood glue on the adjacent good boards tongue tops and on the replacement board's top side of it's tongue. I use PL-400 on the exposed subfloor but be careful not to put down too much or the board will not level out with the adjacent boards. Press the replacement board down firmly and wipe off any excess glue ooze. I like to put baords covering the replacement board and weigh it down with brick or books to hold it until the adhesives set. Usually 24 hours. There are much clearer instructions available for free on the web. Just Goggle wood flooring replacement. Also check out the similar posts from past discussions.

Best instructions on board replacement that I have read... good job

[Peter Kodner]

Clarification on one point please: if it is nail down, do you glue the substrate or only the tongues (both the installed pieces and replacement piece)?

[Curt Durand]

Peter, I was taught to glue the substrate. Not sure how good a tongue only glueing would work over time. Not much bonding surface area.

[Barry Carlton]

Everyone knows I am not a wood expert, but I would think that an adhesive with some elasticity would accommodate any natural wood movement. Maybe something like BB or equivalent.