"Help-Floor joists run opposite directions," in the Hardwood and Laminates Q&A forum, begins: "My husband and I are DIYing a 3/4" thick, 5" wide plank Hickory T&G floor. I know to run the ..."
My husband and I are DIYing a 3/4" thick, 5" wide plank Hickory T&G floor. I know to run the flooring perpindicular to the joists which are 16" OC with 3/4 " OSB as the subfloor. We are installing in our family room, eat in kitchen, hallway, powder room off hallway and foyer. See diagram picture below.
The problem is that the joists in the family room run perpindicular to the joists in the rest of the install area. So that means the flooring would have to run the opposite direction and a transition strip run which isn't what I want. I wanted a seamless look since its a really open floorplan. Plus I think it would look weird.
I've done some research and read that if we install 2x6 blocking between the joists on 24-inch centers in the family room then that would be enough support and we can run the flooring parrallel to the joists in that room and so it would be seamless throughout. The room is only 11' x 12'. Would this work ok? Or would this lead to problems with the boards. Thanks for the advice.
My diagram picture is rough sorry. We have a door for the powder room and closet that open out. Thanks for any advice.
When ¾" solid plank flooring is laid parallel with the floor joists, follow one of these two
1. Add a layer of minimum nominal ½" (15/32”) CD Exposure 1 (CDX) plywood
underlayment to the existing subfloor (as previously recommended)
2. Or brace between truss/joists in accordance with the truss/joist manufacturer’s
recommendations and with local building codes. Some truss/joist systems cannot be
cross-braced and still maintain stability.
Yes I would like the wood to run from the top of the drawing (the kitchen) down through the hallway and and into the foyer.
Why is that not a good idea?
You don't have the dimensions of the rooms or a scale on your drawing, but just from what I can see, I personally would rather have it running the other way, particularly in the kitchen and entry, since they appear to be long and narrow.
Installing on a 45° angle would require approximately an additional 5% material for waste and more labor for cuts. Adding the layer of subfloor would probably far exceed the increased cost of the additional hickory. Which would be faster and less labor? Is cross bracing the joists an option?
Mathgal, it may be best to rack out an area on a 45° and another area straight to see which look you like best.
Am I the only one seeing "24 inch centers" in that room? I suggest checking for deflection before installing anything in there. Any nail down will require a second layer of 1/2" and laying on a diagonal will not eliminate that.