Butcher Block Countertops

Jim McClain · October 31, 2009, 06:59 PM

Now why didn't I think of that?

Me so stoopid.

cproader · October 31, 2009, 07:03 PM

Jim McClain said

Now why didn't I think of that? Me so stoopid.

............T, try to keep up will ya...........

Jim McClain · October 31, 2009, 07:10 PM

Lo Down · October 31, 2009, 11:50 PM

Jim McClain said

CP needs a new handle.................. "the bluntster" comes to mind

Jim McClain · November 4, 2009, 01:28 AM

I thought this would make a good stand-alone topic, so it has been split from the original topic. And now to continue with my countertop saga...

I didn't realize what a huge project the countertops were going to be. After all that sanding I last wrote about, I have a lot more sanding to do.

I wrestled that big countertop outside and finished up with the routing and 120 grit sanding before I got busy cutting the sink template.

Click images to see full-size.

The sink came with the paper template, but for an under-mount sink and the thickness of my countertops, I needed something a little more substantial. I got a half sheet of MDF and traced the pattern to that. Then I used a fine tooth jigsaw blade to cut just to the inside of the line and then sanded to the finished edge. An oxygen bottle actually came in handy as a sanding block for the curves.

I clamped the template over the countertop and, boy, was that an ordeal in itself. I couldn't make up my mind where I wanted to position the front edge of the sink opening. This sink is a bit bigger, over all, than the original sink, so there isn't a lot of room to play with. I measured a half dozen times and repositioned the template several times before I started cutting. Even now I'm not sure I made the right decision, but whatever, I will make it work.

My little Porter Cable circular saw only has a 6" blade, so I had to borrow a huge sidewinder saw to cut a big chunk of the waste section out. Then I used a long blade on my jigsaw to cut the shape of the sink hole as close to the edge of the MDF as possible, so the router bit wouldn't have to cut too much material. I thought I bought a quality bit (Bosch ½" x 1" straight cut), but before I finished my first pass, the bit snapped off at the shank. And this podunk town doesn't have any router bits like it, so I had to wait until today, my medical trip to Reno, to get a replacement.

Since I had the template clamped to the countertop and I was nervous about removing it to move the countertop back inside, I left the countertop outside over night and all day today. I finished cutting the hole out and noticed the sun had an effect on the wood already.

I am hoping that will sand out. It took some of the green heartwood and turned it grayish. Not likin' that too much.

My hope was the routering of the hole, instead of trying to cut it out with just the jigsaw, would virtually eliminate the sanding I would have to do to the edge (I knew I would have some finish sanding to do). But damn, there's quite a bit of roughage that needs to be sanded. That damn bit breaking actually put a divot in the edge that's too big for me to sand out (I think it broke on a knot). But luckily, it's on the front edge and near the middle of the thickness, so no one will notice what's left of it. Still though, there's a lot of sanding to do all around the edge, but it was getting dark. I managed to get it back inside and out of the moist air.

Hard work, but I think it will end up looking real sweet. I'm worried the back edge is too close to the wall - I have to put clips on the bottom to hold the sink. But the measurement to the front edge is exactly the same as the opening of my original sink. I guess if worse comes to worse, I could increase the distance with a ¾" piece of Poplar and make a 3 or 4" tall "back splash" but then I would have to cut an equal amount off the front of the countertop and make it really straight.

What a pain in the...

Barry Carlton · November 4, 2009, 08:39 AM

Coulda told you that butcher blocks were a big job. I did a maple one years ago, and that's some hard wood to finish straight and smooth!!!!

b

Jim McClain · November 4, 2009, 04:23 PM

barrycarlton said

Coulda told you that butcher blocks were a big job.

Yeah, but you didn't. Thanks a lot, buddy.

But I guess you already knew I woulda just ignored that warning anyway.

Today went a little better. I still don't know how the sink will fit, but I got all the sanding done and finished the router work. Maybe not quite as smooth as a baby's butt, but close.

Before applying the stain, I had to use some pre-stain conditioner. It opens the pores to help the wood accept the stain more evenly. Poplar has a tendency to stain blotchy, I've been told. After the conditioner dried for 10 minutes or so, I wiped it down and then put my first coat of stain on. It's called Natural and it was what I felt didn't diminish the greenish tones of the heartwood. See if you can tell the difference between the conditioner in the first photo, and the stain in the second (click to see full-size):

The shading from when it was exposed to the sunlight with the template still attached didn't sand out like I had hoped. Or maybe I just didn't sand enough. It is better though. A guy can take just so much of the sanding, ya know. I figger it will just add character and be something I can point out to prove I ain't perfect.

The stain can says I gotta wait 24 hours to apply a second coat or finish. So, I'm takin' the rest of the day off with pay.

cproader · November 4, 2009, 05:05 PM

Jim McClain said

So, I'm takin' the rest of the day off with pay.

.............

Daris Mulkin · November 4, 2009, 05:27 PM

"T" I hate to say it but i think that counter top is looking SWEET!!!
I like how the coloring of the wood is showing the light and dark.
And to think in the very beginning I was going to suggest getting a piece of some replaced bowling alley. I like this better.

Daris

Nick Arrera · November 4, 2009, 06:07 PM

Different wood Daris .
Lanes are southern yellow pine , and the heads and pin decks are Birdseye maple .
No character in the wood . This is really nice .

Rub the palm of your hand across it tomorrow T and make sure it is not tacky . if you feel any little bumps give it a light sanding with a used screen , or even a real fine piece of steel wool .
Looks good .

Jim McClain · November 4, 2009, 06:35 PM

Thanks, you guys. Glad you're liking it.

Nick, I was going to check for tackiness before doing any more. I was going to lightly sand with some 220 grit paper I have. You think even lighter than that, hu? No used screen around. Maybe something else?

I waited as long as I could and just brought everything in from outside. The odor is very slight, so I think I can live with it 'til tomorrow afternoon. I'm gonna try to time it so I can get some paint on some trim I wanna lay out on the saw horses. By the time it dries, it should be time to take the countertops outside again. 'Course, the weather might change all that - it might rain tomorrow. But maybe the sanding I have to do won't have to be done outside and I can apply the stain inside too. I'll just leave for a couple hours and leave the window open with the fan on to clear the air.

When a project gets this close, I get antsie.

Jim

Barry Carlton · November 4, 2009, 07:58 PM

Once it is thoroughly dry, I would use 400 grit to lightly sand any imperfections with a sanding block. Don't over sand or you can seal the pores of the wood, esp. on a softer wood like poplar.

Or maybe SK can get you a drum sander and edger

b

cproader · November 4, 2009, 10:07 PM

Jim McClain said

..............

Lo Down · November 4, 2009, 10:46 PM

Jim McClain said

Thanks, you guys. Glad you're liking it.

Nick, I was going to check for tackiness before doing any more. I was going to lightly sand with some 220 grit paper I have. You think even lighter than that, hu? No used screen around. Maybe something else?

I waited as long as I could and just brought everything in from outside. The odor is very slight, so I think I can live with it 'til tomorrow afternoon. I'm gonna try to time it so I can get some paint on some trim I wanna lay out on the saw horses. By the time it dries, it should be time to take the countertops outside again. 'Course, the weather might change all that - it might rain tomorrow. But maybe the sanding I have to do won't have to be done outside and I can apply the stain inside too. I'll just leave for a couple hours and leave the window open with the fan on to clear the air.

When a project gets this close, I get antsie.

Jim

So can we call ya Auntsie Jim now?

Maybe what little fading is left will even out over time from the room light? Heck............... I don't think it's even an issue. Lookin really, really nice Jim. Be sure to let that stuff dry good so ya don't pollute yourself. It's gonna dry a little slower if the weather changes to cooler and wetter.
Are you doing a coat on the underside to "balance" the wood............... or did I just give you something more to worry about.

Jim McClain · November 4, 2009, 11:16 PM

Lo Down said

Are you doing a coat on the underside to "balance" the wood............... or did I just give you something more to worry about.

Balance??? Oh jeez! I planned on putting the finish on the bottom just to protect it from deterioration or moisture damage, but I didn't think about putting any stain there. I'm only staining the parts that show - top, sides and the underside that hangs over the cabinets and the sink bowl.

I think you're just messing with me.

grrr

I do notice after 6 hours or so now, the surface feels kinda fuzzy and gritty. Not nearly as smooth as it was when I finished sanding it. I wish it didn't take so long between coats. I can't do anything with it now until late tomorrow afternoon.