"Butcher Block Countertops," in the Other Home Decorating & Remodeling Projects forum, begins: "Jim McClain said
Balance??? Oh jeez! I planned on putting the finish on the bottom just to protect it from ..."
Balance??? Oh jeez! I planned on putting the finish on the bottom just to protect it from deterioration or moisture damage, but I didn't think about putting any stain there. I'm only staining the parts that show - top, sides and the underside that hangs over the cabinets and the sink bowl.
I think you're just messing with me. grrr
I do notice after 6 hours or so now, the surface feels kinda fuzzy and gritty. Not nearly as smooth as it was when I finished sanding it. I wish it didn't take so long between coats. I can't do anything with it now until late tomorrow afternoon.
I'm messin with ya, but I was just referring to finish on the bottom..... no stain required there.
Slow down a bit and let it dry good between coats, you don't want to Rush it even if ya really do want'a Rush it. Like you, I figure Rush is sometimes the only way to get everything done right, but probably not this time........... keep the progress time line on the conservative side.
If your need more assistance, ya might check out EIB U ............. the Excellence In Butcherblock University.
................. and yeah, I'm still messin with ya.
Nick, I was going to check for tackiness before doing any more. I was going to lightly sand with some 220 grit paper I have. You think even lighter than that, hu? No used screen around. Maybe something else?
I waited as long as I could and just brought everything in from outside. The odor is very slight, so I think I can live with it 'til tomorrow afternoon. I'm gonna try to time it so I can get some paint on some trim I wanna lay out on the saw horses. By the time it dries, it should be time to take the countertops outside again. 'Course, the weather might change all that - it might rain tomorrow. But maybe the sanding I have to do won't have to be done outside and I can apply the stain inside too. I'll just leave for a couple hours and leave the window open with the fan on to clear the air.
When a project gets this close, I get antsie.
Jim
With Barry on this . Only i would use a real fine steel wool if i couldn't get a screen .
get a scrap of wood and take some of newness off the paper first .
You just want a light sanding to knock off the little bumps and give the base coat something to adhere to .
I'm messin with ya, but I was just referring to finish on the bottom..... no stain required there.
Slow down a bit and let it dry good between coats, you don't want to Rush it even if ya really do want'a Rush it. Like you, I figure Rush is sometimes the only way to get everything done right, but probably not this time........... keep the progress time line on the conservative side.
If your need more assistance, ya might check out EIB U ............. the Excellence In Butcherblock University.
................. and yeah, I'm still messin with ya.
The weather forced me to do something I shouldn't have. It's been threatening to rain all day and the wind has been fierce. The rain is s'posed to last for several days, so I decided to get some trim painting done that is being used elsewhere in my remodel. That took all the saw horses I had.
The products I am using on the countertops also require warm and dry temperatures over longer periods of time, so I made the decision to do the finish work inside. I borrowed a couple saw horses and they were barely enough work area to do what I had to do.
That's the bottoms of the main countertop and the bar top - I put finish on the entire bottom of the bar top, but only the areas exposed to moisture on the main countertop. The side countertop is there too.
First coat is done. It's a gel type finish called "Good Stuff". I'll add the second coat later tonight, but in the mean time, I am leaving to get away from the smell and fumes. I know it will be bad tonight too, but I will drape some plastic over my bedroom door and go to bed early.
Absolutely beautiful! Just get yourself a good cutting board, you'll hate yourself the first time you chop something up right on the butcher block!
Tia
I know what you mean. But as I mentioned before...
Jim McClain said
Thing is, this isn't a chopping or cutting board surface. It's butcher block style, yes, but not butcher block purpose.
I was going to make a cutting board out of the cutout from the sink hole, but a girl I know asked me for it and I couldn't say no. So, I think I will get something "different" for a cutting surface, but I don't know what yet. I'll try to take good care of the countertops.
Jim
PS: I couldn't stay away from it too long. I just put the second coat of finish on. Now I gotta see what mischief CP has been up to ...
sounds like your getting grain raise. I missed what your using to seal it with, but Poplar is kinda like that. I liked using Zinnser Seal Coat, before the finish went on. Alcohol based, and dries really fast. Not much down time between coats.
Yes, Barry, I can loan my Clark 8" Drum sander, but he'd have a heck of a time lifting up onto that countertop.
Don't know what stain conditioner is, but we used to use water, to pop the grain before staining.
As long as you out your finish, on the undersides, you'll be as balanced as you need to be. Lo is being bad....
sounds like your getting grain raise. I missed what your using to seal it with, but Poplar is kinda like that. I liked using Zinnser Seal Coat, before the finish went on. Alcohol based, and dries really fast. Not much down time between coats.
Yes, Barry, I can loan my Clark 8" Drum sander, but he'd have a heck of a time lifting up onto that countertop.
Don't know what stain conditioner is, but we used to use water, to pop the grain before staining.
As long as you out your finish, on the undersides, you'll be as balanced as you need to be. Lo is being bad....
You must have misread the meaning.............. Just tryin to make Jim slow down so he don't overwork himself. He's got the project all figured out now and lookin so darn good, heck, I bet if he did another one he could do it in 1/4 the time with half his brain tied behind his back.
See........ Lo is just tryin to help.
I guess stain conditioner does the same thing you say water does. It s'posed to open the pores of the wood so the stain goes on evenly without the blotchy effect that Poplar is known for.
I used a "type S ultra fine" Scotchbrite pad to go over the countertop before applying the finish. Of course, I wiped it all down with a clean rag before applying the finish.
The finish material is a urethane gel and the directions say to apply it in a circular pattern on the first coat. After a few minutes, it is supposed to be wiped with a clean dry cloth with the grain in a brisk motion. I didn't realize the amount of work that really is and I don't think I was able to get the finish to the state it should be.
The dried finish (about 5 hours after application) still had swirl marks. I used the Scotchbrite pad again, very lightly, to try to clean up the finish some. Then I applied a second coat, just as the can said, in a with-the-grain motion. I let it set a few minutes and then wiped with the grain with a dry rag again.
The finish looks slightly better than the first coat, but I can still see some swirl marks or unevenness. I took the picture below and looked at it full size and it's like looking at the finish through a magnifying glass. I can see more flaws than you can actually see just looking at it. But it may help you see what I might have done wrong. You should be able to see the unevenness and swirls. My last sanding was with a palm sander and some 120 grip paper, so I hope some of the problem isn't that. You can also see some of the problem up by the sink cutout.
If I had ever done hardwood refinishing, I'd no doubt know what to do, but I didn't and I don't. I need some guidance here. I think the biggest problem I have is not having the lung power to get me through a proper sanding and finishing. This stuff I got has to be rubbed in and it takes more than I got to give, unfortunately.
So, before I move ahead with the third coat, tell me what I might do to make this better. I can't make it perfect because I just don't have the strength and stamina, so kinda work with that if you will. I just want to make the finish a little smoother and consistent.
Maybe use the palm sander and the Scotchbrite pad? How about that steel wool Nick mentioned?
First problem i see is you have some bogus finish .
You have to sand down to the swirls to remove them . the more coats you pull is just going to magnify them.
What are using to apply the finish ?
urethane should be pulled one way with a lambs wool applicator . You can get a 12" x 12" one at HD for around $10.00 Did many a transition piece and baseboard with them and i have to say they came out better then the ones you get from the factory .
Sandpaper scratches , doesn't matter what grit . that is why we screen to remove the scratches from the paper . use a real fine steel wool after your first coat . Going to look around for you today to see if i have any used screens . also 5 hours is not long enough for urethane to cure . I don't care what the can says .
We don't want it peeling later . You can call anytime T if you have any other questions .
grrr
...................:yesss :
........... .WAIT !!!........let's delete a bunch of stuff..........
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So, I think I will get something "different" for a cutting surface, but I don't know what yet. I'll try to take good care of the countertops.
