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November 6, 2009, 08:18 AM
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#46
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Retired from Sales & Installations
Join Date: May 2006
Location: The REAL Northern California
Posts: 2,150
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Re: Butcher Block Countertops
Kman said
After the first coat of finish dried and you sanded it lightly, what did you use to clean up the powder?
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Old t-shirt - a clean one.
Also, I would use a screen between coats. 120 grit is a little heavy for that.
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I don't have screens, only sandpaper up to 120 grit and the ultra fine Scotchbrite pad (have no idea what that would equate to in grit power).
One other thing, did you use the same applicator for both coats?
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No, a fresh one for each.
Nick Arrera said
First problem i see is you have some bogus finish .
You have to sand down to the swirls to remove them . the more coats you pull is just going to magnify them.
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Actually, this is apparently some very highly regarded finish for butcher blocks. It has a satin finish.
What are using to apply the finish ?
urethane should be pulled one way with a lambs wool applicator . You can get a 12" x 12" one at HD for around $10.00 Did many a transition piece and baseboard with them and i have to say they came out better then the ones you get from the factory .
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It's a gel, not a liquid. I am using the recommended applicator, a clean cotton cloth (they actually say "soft rag or paper towel").
... use a real fine steel wool after your first coat . Going to look around for you today to see if i have any used screens .
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Well, there's 2 coats on it now and after letting it set over night, it does look a little better than last night when I took the pictures. 'Course, that may just be the lighting difference.  Don't send any screens. I can't live with this thing in my living space that long. I am going to an event in Reno this afternoon. Maybe I can get some steel wool or something?
... also 5 hours is not long enough for urethane to cure . I don't care what the can says .
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The can says "Air dry at least 4 hours between coats, depending on temperature and humidity. For best results, allow over night drying time between coats." According to the guy I spoke with on the phone yesterday (a butcher block guy), this stuff drys in that time period, but can take a lot longer than that to cure.
You guys didn't say anything about the palm sander I have. Can I use that to smooth out the existing finish with some kind of screen for sheetrock I can get in Reno, or even some real find sandpaper (400 grit?). Or maybe I can just use fine steel wool? Using the sander sure would help me breathe easier.
You see, I can't do the energetic sanding and rubbing back and forth like I prob'ly should. My lungs just won't let me. I know this is late in the game to realize this, but I didn't know it was going to be like this. Now I'm kinda stuck with it and just need to get it better, not perfect. I know I won't be able to get every imperfection out of it, but I will do what I can to make it a little better than it is.
Jeez, I couldn't sleep for fretting about this. Been a long time since I was up at this hour. Thanks for helping me out.
Jim
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November 6, 2009, 08:34 AM
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#47
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Administrative Assistant
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Boise, Idaho
Posts: 6,813
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Re: Butcher Block Countertops
Lowe's and Depot have wet dry paper to 600 grit here in Boise.
Also an auto paint supply store will have wet dry to finer than 2000 grit or finer (and in between)
The finer grits will be more forgiving with the palm sander.
Course you could always get the papet they use to buff aricraft windshields, I think that is close to 15000 to 20000 grit
b
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November 6, 2009, 08:44 AM
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#48
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Retired from Sales & Installations
Join Date: May 2006
Location: The REAL Northern California
Posts: 2,150
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Re: Butcher Block Countertops
I can get some fine grit papers at Home Depot or Lowe's. I wouldn't do any wet sanding though, which is why I think screening was suggested - less clogging of the sanding material.
Jim
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November 6, 2009, 01:28 PM
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#49
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Tile Expert
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: NW Arkansas
Posts: 2,369
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Re: Butcher Block Countertops
Did you put anything on the t-shirt you used to clean? A cloth dampened with water would pick up much better. A dry cloth can't get all the particles good enough, so you end up with a little trash in the finish.
I'm thinking at this point you'd have to sand off quite a bit of finish to get it back where you want.
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November 6, 2009, 10:24 PM
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#50
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a Floor Pro
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,764
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Re: Butcher Block Countertops
I can't help much - the only butcher block experience I've had was on an island in a rental which I put up for sale. My fix-it-up guy stripped it and then recoated it, but can't tell you with what. It looked pretty when he was done! The island in my house is stainless steel, but Tommy got annoyed by the knife scratches and brought home a piece of white marble which fits perfectly on half of it. It also gets marks, but they aren't so easily noticed.
Tia
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November 7, 2009, 01:21 PM
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#51
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Chris Flynn
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Hub of the Universe in Indiana - near Purdue University
Posts: 639
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Re: Butcher Block Countertops
awesome job jim. I don't know how I missed the thread  looks great!
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November 7, 2009, 01:56 PM
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#52
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Retired from Sales & Installations
Join Date: May 2006
Location: The REAL Northern California
Posts: 2,150
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Re: Butcher Block Countertops
Thank you.
This is one of those very humbling times when you realize... when I realize I have taken on more than I can do. The countertop may have beaten me. I'll know for sure tomorrow morning.
I screened the surface by using my random orbital palm sander (my neighbor's actually) with a very used piece of 220 grit sheetrock screen. It got clogged up quite a bit and I had to use a stiff brush to clean as I went, but I got it as best I could. It made the surface relatively smooth, with a foggy kind of appearance throughout.
Then I wiped the whole thing down with a slightly dampened, clean white t-shirt and let it dry for a few minutes.
I wrapped a 3/8" new paint roller roll tightly with a clean microfiber cloth. I used a narrow putty knife to spread the urethane gel across the cloth. Holding the roll firmly, I dragged (not rolled) it the full length of the countertop and tried to get the gel to coat the top in a thin, even layer. Each pass I overlapped slightly and after applying that row, I went over the previous rows to blend and smooth even more. I made 4 full passes with the applicator across a 25" countertop.
Looking at it closely, I can see very small ridges where the gel is built up - it's almost like I troweled the finish on, but the ridges are much less pronounced and only noticeable in the glare of the light. It was the best I could do with my #@(&!^' lungs. Now I have to deal with the damn odor and fumes - and a really cold apartment because I opened the door and window and turned the fan on (it's a LOT colder outside and it's raining off and on).
So, we'll see. I ain't doing it again, no matter what. And I won't be tackling any other projects that require these kinds of solvent based finishes. I also decided against trying to fix the bar top or the small end countertop. Those weren't as bad as the big countertop anyway.
Keep yer fingers crossed for my countertop turning out nice.
Jim
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November 7, 2009, 02:30 PM
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#53
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The One and Only
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Davison,Mi
Posts: 5,676
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Re: Butcher Block Countertops
I read in a wood working magazine when the last coat of urethane has cured to take and polish it with paste car wax. That also will put a smooth protective finish on it. You could use your palm sander and a rag to put on and also to remove.
Daris
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November 7, 2009, 03:09 PM
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#54
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Chris Flynn
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Hub of the Universe in Indiana - near Purdue University
Posts: 639
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Re: Butcher Block Countertops
Jim McClain said
Thank you. 
This is one of those very humbling times when you realize... when I realize I have taken on more than I can do. The countertop may have beaten me. I'll know for sure tomorrow morning.
I screened the surface by using my random orbital palm sander (my neighbor's actually) with a very used piece of 220 grit sheetrock screen. It got clogged up quite a bit and I had to use a stiff brush to clean as I went, but I got it as best I could. It made the surface relatively smooth, with a foggy kind of appearance throughout.
Then I wiped the whole thing down with a slightly dampened, clean white t-shirt and let it dry for a few minutes.
I wrapped a 3/8" new paint roller roll tightly with a clean microfiber cloth. I used a narrow putty knife to spread the urethane gel across the cloth. Holding the roll firmly, I dragged (not rolled) it the full length of the countertop and tried to get the gel to coat the top in a thin, even layer. Each pass I overlapped slightly and after applying that row, I went over the previous rows to blend and smooth even more. I made 4 full passes with the applicator across a 25" countertop.
Looking at it closely, I can see very small ridges where the gel is built up - it's almost like I troweled the finish on, but the ridges are much less pronounced and only noticeable in the glare of the light. It was the best I could do with my #@(&!^' lungs. Now I have to deal with the damn odor and fumes - and a really cold apartment because I opened the door and window and turned the fan on (it's a LOT colder outside and it's raining off and on).
So, we'll see. I ain't doing it again, no matter what. And I won't be tackling any other projects that require these kinds of solvent based finishes. I also decided against trying to fix the bar top or the small end countertop. Those weren't as bad as the big countertop anyway.
Keep yer fingers crossed for my countertop turning out nice.
Jim
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Jim
if you want to even out the ridges, you can let it dry for a week or so, then take some 600 grit wet paper, spritz with a bottle of distilled water ( will have not dust) hand sand with the grain lightly, then buff with a car buffer and it will level out... I am pissed at myself because I missed this thread. this is what I would of recommended. I am sorry o Zenith™ Waterborne Conversion Varnish or sherwin william's Aqua-loc. Ask Sherwin-Williams for help planning a project or selecting the right colors and products. - Sherwin-Williams
I am sorry I did not see this sooner to help, either one of these products are user friendly and VOC compliant, you wouldn't of even notice any oder after an hour or so... and both dry in about 30-40 minutes to recoat. hell I have sprayed a whold kitchen three coats in one day before. I have recently switched to all waterbase products in the cabinets and furniture that I am building... I still use oil for floors, because you can not spray waterbase in someone's house.
Last edited by TFP Admin; November 7, 2009 at 03:23 PM.
Reason: fixed link
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November 7, 2009, 03:30 PM
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#55
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Retired from Sales & Installations
Join Date: May 2006
Location: The REAL Northern California
Posts: 2,150
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Re: Butcher Block Countertops
Thanks, Daris. That is also information on the side of the can of the product I'm using. I might do that, but it could be hard to keep up. Wax will wear off and I don't want to put that much maintenance into the countertop.
Chris, I fixed one of your links. I couldn't find the Aqua-Loc product at Sherwin-Williams. But anyway, I think if the ridges bother me in a week or so, I'll do like you say and wet sand them. The countertop should be installed by then and I won't have to worry about getting the top wet or if the urethane is fully cured.
Thanks for the help.
Jim
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November 7, 2009, 09:21 PM
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#56
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Old as dirt member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Sunny and warm Oregon coast
Posts: 6,371
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Re: Butcher Block Countertops
By the time you get the toaster oven and the cookie jar set in place you are gonna forget any of those small issues Jim. All these kinds of things are annoying when you have your eyes and hands on em close up and personal. Once installed and being used you are gonna be braggin up a "I did it myself" rant every chance you get. 
..........and a well deserved one I might add.  Can't wait to see the finished top with everything installed. You're gettin close, so take a well deserved day off and enjoy the rain and wind. I was gonna do that tomorrow at the beach, but I got a little thing I gotta finish up. 
......argh! ....maybe afterwords. I wanted to go this morning, there were supposed to be 35 footers........... Darol's kind of ocean fishin weather.
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November 7, 2009, 09:50 PM
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#57
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a Floor Pro
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,764
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Re: Butcher Block Countertops
Daris Mulkin said
I read in a wood working magazine when the last coat of urethane has cured to take and polish it with paste car wax. That also will put a smooth protective finish on it. You could use your palm sander and a rag to put on and also to remove.
Daris
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That reminds me of years ago, when I got the hint to scrub my shower doors then put baby oil on them. Nothing stuck to them again!
Tia
Last edited by FlooringGirl; November 7, 2009 at 09:59 PM.
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November 7, 2009, 09:56 PM
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#58
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Retired from Sales & Installations
Join Date: May 2006
Location: The REAL Northern California
Posts: 2,150
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Re: Butcher Block Countertops
I think you're right, Lo. Besides, this thing has made me sick - literally. I laid down for a short nap just a little after my last post. I wasn't feeling too chipper and thought I was just a little tired. I set my alarm for an hour. I just woke up about 20 minutes ago. I think I'm done with the countertops except for installing them.
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November 7, 2009, 10:00 PM
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#59
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a Floor Pro
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,764
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Re: Butcher Block Countertops
Jim McClain said
I think you're right, Lo. Besides, this thing has made me sick - literally. I laid down for a short nap just a little after my last post. I wasn't feeling too chipper and thought I was just a little tired. I set my alarm for an hour. I just woke up about 20 minutes ago. I think I'm done with the countertops except for installing them. 
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Jim, please don't make yourself sick! Really ...
Tia
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November 7, 2009, 10:13 PM
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#60
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Retired from Sales & Installations
Join Date: May 2006
Location: The REAL Northern California
Posts: 2,150
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Re: Butcher Block Countertops
I know, Tia. I ignored everyone, including one of my doctors, who has been kinda following this remodeling saga. It was really stupid of me to do this finishing work inside my apartment, but I thought I could vent it well enough.  I'm sittin' here really cold right now and won't be doing it again. I promise.
Jim
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