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Hey, so that "vinyl attachment" lots of you have for your wall trimmer


"Hey, so that "vinyl attachment" lots of you have for your wall trimmer," in the Tools, Equipment and Supplies forum, begins: "I hate it for vinyl but it's great for direct glue carpet. The tricks: Use a hook blade. I usually ..."

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Old May 18, 2010, 03:49 PM   #1
Sean Moore
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Hey, so that "vinyl attachment" lots of you have for your wall trimmer


I hate it for vinyl but it's great for direct glue carpet. The tricks:

Use a hook blade. I usually end up using roberts because that's what I like in my knives but those small opening crain blades work fine in it too. Hook one of the hooks over the retaining screw. Don't worry, when you break off that stupid plastic knob there is an allen head bolt under it . You only get one side out of the hook blade (hooking it over the screw ruins the other side) but it will cut hundreds of yards of action bac.

Set the attachment in the aluminum spacers so that the bottom of the attachment is flush with the bottom of your trimmer. You get more than 1/4in adjustment just with the knob.

Fold the handle all the way to the retention knobs. You will then lean your hand on top of the tool (pressing down as much as forward) and there is no guesswork about what angle you should hold. All adjustment is done via the top knob. You normally have to flop the handle out of the way to change the blade but it's not a big deal because you're just going to flop it all the way back anyways.

I set mine up to use with my left hand, clockwise around the room. I started doing this because everyone else does right hand and we could both start at the door and trim the room together. After awhile I noticed I could keep my slotted blade knife in my right hand, increasing efficiency.

Have fun! Best glue down tool ever. Go ahead and lose that white thing unless you're going to use it for vinyl. Once you get it adjusted it will be your go-to tool for flush cutting direct glue carpet. Perfect cuts against glazing, wood base, existing straight base, counters, anything really. When you learn the tool you'll figure out what setting with the knob is good for flush and what setting is good for 1/8 loose when you're putting cove base on. There are two small reference marks where the blade emerges.

Be careful with the damn thing. It's a serious hazard tossed into a tool bucket. Mine stays flat on the bottom of my crab stretcher bag.

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Old May 18, 2010, 03:55 PM   #2
Barry Carlton
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Could you post a pic?

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Old May 18, 2010, 04:37 PM   #3
Sean Moore
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sure thing.

trimmer-top shows the adjustment knob well and will let you know which attachment it is. Note it only needs one blade screw. it's been working great like that for over 5 years. You can even see the rust left in it when I bought the whole trimmer from a pawn shop and it had an old slotted blade in it.

trimmer-back shows you the view I have when I'm pushing it. Left hand goes on top, palm just this side of the peak of the handle. Fingers wrap over the peak of the handle. The attachment looks like it's lower than the base of the trimmer in this pic but it is dead-nut-flush when you pass your fingers over it.

trimmer-blade shows the current blade setting, that's going to trim about 3/16 short of the wall on action bac, I think I used it on Unibond last so just barely short of the wall. I would bring the blade higher to trim unibond flush.
Attached Thumbnails (click to enlarge)
trimmer-top.jpg   trimmer-back.jpg  

trimmer-blade.jpg  

Last edited by Sean Moore; May 18, 2010 at 04:55 PM.
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Old May 18, 2010, 05:06 PM   #4
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Thanks for the good info Sean, I'll have to try that out!

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Old May 18, 2010, 06:02 PM   #5
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Sean Moore said View Post
sure thing.

trimmer-top shows the adjustment knob well and will let you know which attachment it is. Note it only needs one blade screw. it's been working great like that for over 5 years. You can even see the rust left in it when I bought the whole trimmer from a pawn shop and it had an old slotted blade in it.

trimmer-back shows you the view I have when I'm pushing it. Left hand goes on top, palm just this side of the peak of the handle. Fingers wrap over the peak of the handle. The attachment looks like it's lower than the base of the trimmer in this pic but it is dead-nut-flush when you pass your fingers over it.

trimmer-blade shows the current blade setting, that's going to trim about 3/16 short of the wall on action bac, I think I used it on Unibond last so just barely short of the wall. I would bring the blade higher to trim unibond flush.
**
I like the looks of that. I'm going to give it a whirl.

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Old May 18, 2010, 06:18 PM   #6
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thanks guys.

Don't hit metal with it. Ruins the blade very quickly, even the thin corner bead does it.

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Old May 20, 2010, 04:09 PM   #7
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Think of the Monkeys' tune here....I'm a believer!!!!

I try to do one or two medium sized GD cpt. jobs a year. I am on one now. About 700 yds. in 3 phases. So I thought, sure I'll try this (really thinking " yeah right, a hook blade on cpt, oh brother!!!).

I am totally sold. No more creasing the cpt. Just cut and go. Maybe a quick rub or roll if it is not getting base.

Thanx Sean!!!

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Old May 20, 2010, 05:04 PM   #8
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Good to know Barry!!! I will have to definitely try this out. I've always thought there had to be a good way to use a trimmer on glue down carpet.

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Old May 20, 2010, 05:15 PM   #9
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I have an old, probably antique, Kinkead GD trimmer. Never did try it, tho.

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Old May 20, 2010, 05:29 PM   #10
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Would it work the same with this set up? wall carpet trimmer adapter | ROBERTS


Last edited by Jim McClain; May 20, 2010 at 07:20 PM. Reason: affiliate link
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Old May 20, 2010, 06:01 PM   #11
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kylenelson said View Post
Would it work the same with this set up? wall carpet trimmer adapter | ROBERTS
That's what I am using it with.


Last edited by Jim McClain; May 20, 2010 at 07:21 PM. Reason: affiliate link
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Old May 20, 2010, 06:04 PM   #12
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barrycarlton said View Post
That's what I am using it with.
Thanks, I'm going to order this attatchment with my next ShagTools.com order (whenever i need more koolglide tape)!


Last edited by Jim McClain; May 20, 2010 at 07:32 PM. Reason: affiliate link
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Old May 21, 2010, 04:43 PM   #13
Sean Moore
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Totally welcome, dudes.

You don't even need to rub it if it doesn't get base. just push the non-blade side in first, then plunge the blade in.

The super-secret trick to pushing production when it does get cove base: get the carpet flat in the corner however you do (I use a single cut from the corner square out into the waste), and when you finish the wall you just came down, start the other wall with the trimmer. Pull the carpet back and cut the very short part on the "other wall" from the back. The uncut portion is only about 2in. Then when you lay it back in it lays perfectly flat and cutting the last 6in. of the wall we have just completed is very quick.

Having the handle flopped all the way to the knobs means you can even put it in an apprentice's hand and not worry. I used to cut out into the room occasionally when I had the handle out in the strip-n-pad configuration. The only times that happens now is if prep wasn't done right and I hit an electrical knockout or something. I'm not leaning into it right when I fail like this, push into the wall/floor and it doesn't happen, you just stop (or break your blade ).

barrycarlton said View Post
Think of the Monkeys' tune here....I'm a believer!!!!

I try to do one or two medium sized GD cpt. jobs a year. I am on one now. About 700 yds. in 3 phases. So I thought, sure I'll try this (really thinking " yeah right, a hook blade on cpt, oh brother!!!).

I am totally sold. No more creasing the cpt. Just cut and go. Maybe a quick rub or roll if it is not getting base.

Thanx Sean!!!

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Old May 21, 2010, 09:50 PM   #14
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So, you lay the handle down away from the wall?

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Old May 21, 2010, 10:23 PM   #15
Sean Moore
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no, all the way towards the wall. see pics above.

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