Nosing problem on vinyl-covered stairs

[UnderCat]

I have a staircase that about five years ago had vinyl installed on the treads with rubber nosings.

All of the nosings have come off. I don't know what type of adhesive was used, but it was applied with notched trowel, and clearly was the wrong adhesive. From what I've read on the web, contact cement is what should have been used.

To make matters worse, the edges of the stairs are somewhat rounded, which means that the nosings had no support at the end, which likely helped loosen them from the treads.

I've scrapped the hardened adhesive off the treads, but haven't started on the nosings yet, so I'll be able to repair this soon. The question is how.

The right way would be with contact cement and probably some epoxy nose caulk to handle the rounded tread edges.

But I don't think I can do it the right way. Unfortunately, I stored the nosings in a way that wasn't completely flat and they all have some sort of small bend in them. The bends are easy enough to straighten out by hand, but with contact cement you get one chance and I can't see how I could possibly get the nosings aligned correctly without any mistakes when they're put down (it would seem hard enough even if they were completely straight!).

So, what can I do here?

Right now, I have a few thoughts in mind:

1) Don't use contact cement, but some other adhesive that gives me some time to get the nosings in place correctly. Any suggestions what would be a good choice? Maybe an epoxy?

2) Use contact cement, but cover the tread with a few pieces of wax paper over the cement. I would then put the nosing down (the nosing with contact cement on, of course). I'd get one side of the nosing aligned correctly and pull out the piece of wax paper under where I have it aligned. I'd work my way down the nosing getting each section aligned and pulling out the wax paper until the tread is finished. I'd use a helper for this, one person holding the nosing, and the other pulling out the wax paper. If I used the epoxy nose caulk, I'd worry about smearing it when the wax paper is pulled out.

3) Use contact cement, but only coat the nosing completely, and to start with, only a very small portion of the tread at one end. I'd attach the nosing to the tread where the tread has the cement (I don't think it would be hard to get one side aligned correctly). I'd lift up the nosing and apply cement to a few more inches on the tread, stick it down, and continue until the nosing is completely down.

An alternative adhesive to contact cement is my preferred choice. It clearly would be easier to do.

The two ways I thought about doing it with contact cement are likely completely nuts. I admit I've never worked with it before.

Any help appreciated.

Thanks.

[Jon Scanlan]

UnderCat welcome to TFP There are some very skilled tradesmen here so someone will get you the correct and easy answers to your problem.
Things are probably a bit different in NZ and the words we use aren't the same as yours (Different accent ) I am certain that vinyl/rubber nosings aren't allowed to be used here commercially now. What we used to do with rubber/vinyl nosings with a round corner was to rat tail them. About half an inch back from the front of the nosing we would cut along a rib at the start of the radius to the wall dry so that the front didn't puker. The tighter radius the more strips to be cut. Maybe 4 or 5 strips cut on the walk bit of the nosing. We would draw a pencil line to where the back of the nosing fits. Contact glue nosing and stair then when dry hold up nosing vertically, line up back of nosing on pencil line holding the front out flat and just push down. You will then run finger under vertical surface to smooth out and push into place. With the radius corner the front has to go on first to line up and then place the strips in order cutting into the wall as you go
Someone else might be able to put all this into American speak better for you

[Peter Kodner]

Nosing and treads come square and round nose for a reason. I would not try to apply (or in your case re-apply) a round profile on a square stair. Nose filler is not intended to make a round profile fit a square stair!

You also do not state if the nosing are butt to, underlap or overlap.

I'm afraid that to correct this job, the prudent and safe way is to purchase new square profile nosings, in a butt to construction, and install them per manufacturer's directives. Make sure the nosing are meant to butt to the gauge (thickness) of the vinyl on the treads or are overlap type. You can save some money by using a vinyl nosing instead of rubber.

If you are so inclined, and want an aesthetic and even safer method, remove the vinyl on the treads and use treads with an integral nosing.

[cproader]

Jon Scanlan said so that the front didn't puker. Someone else might be able to put all this into American speak better for you

................... ...............

[Jon Scanlan]

Sorry. I took it that the stairs had a curve at one end. I would do as Peter says. See I told you we have funny words.

[UnderCat]

Thanks for the help.

These are overlap nosings. And what I meant by the tread edges being rounded, was really more that some have damage that makes them a little rounded.

What I think I'll be doing is reusing the nosings I have, and use Johnsonite Power Tape to adhere them to the treads. I'll be using epoxy nose caulk as well (most likely R.C.A Rubber's as it's sold in a two cartridge unit with mixing nozzle, without having to pay an extra $100 for dispensing unit for the Musson's caulk).

Anyone have experience with the Johnsonite Power Tape?

[Peter Kodner]

I have never used i but if it is half as good as Nora, you should not have a problem.

[mcbrides]

Use contact cement to reattach the nosings, making sure you dry fit them before applying adhesive. Use a cloth to rub the nosings into the adhesive, and have a bottle of varsol handy for clean-up. If the nosings are crimped, use a hair blow dryer to warm them and they will flatten out.

Deb